Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to ConsumerKnapp, Arthur William
History
Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to Consumer
Knapp, Arthur William
Chocolate; Cocoa
MANUFACTURER: By good I mean large, ripe, well-cured beans.
By indifferent I mean unripe and unfermented. By abominable I
mean germinated, mouldy, and grubby beans. Happily, the last
class is quite a small one.
PLANTER: You don't mean to tell me that only the good cacao
sells?
MANUFACTURER: Unfortunately, no! There are users of inferior
beans. Practically all the cacao produced--good and
indifferent--is bought by someone. Most manufacturers prefer
the fine, healthy, well fermented kinds.
PLANTER: Well fermented! They have a strange way of showing
their preference. Why, they often pay more for Guayaquil than
they do for Grenada cacao. Yet Guayaquil is never properly
fermented, whilst that from the Grenada estates is perfectly
fermented.
MANUFACTURER: Agreed. Just as you would pay more for a
badly-trained thoroughbred than for a well-trained mongrel.
It's breed they pay for. The Guayaquil breed is peculiar;
there is nothing else like it in the world. You might think
the tree had been grafted on to a spice tree. It has a fine
characteristic aroma, which is so powerful that it masks the
presence of a high percentage of unfermented beans. However,
if Guayaquil cacao was well-fermented it would (subject to
the iron laws of Supply and Demand) fetch a still higher
price, and there would not be the loss there is in a wet
season when the Guayaquil cacao, being unfermented, goes
mouldy. I think in Grenada they plant for high yield, and not
for quality, for the bean is small and approaches the
inferior Calabacillo breed. Its value is maintained by an
amazing evenness and an uniform excellence in curing. The way
in which it is prepared for the market does great credit to
the planters.
PLANTER: They don't clay there, do they?
MANUFACTURER: No! and yet it is practically impossible to
find a mouldy bean in Grenada estates cacao. Evidently
claying is not a necessity--in Grenada.
PLANTER: Ha! ha! By that I suppose you insinuate that it is
not a necessity in Trinidad, where the curing is also
excellent. Or in Venezuela? What's the buyer's objection to
claying?
MANUFACTURER: Simply that claying is camouflage. Actually the
buyer doesn't mind so long as the clay is not too generously
used. He objects to paying for beans and getting clay.
However, it's really too bad to colour up with clay the black
cacao from diseased pods; it might deceive even experienced
brokers.
PLANTER: Ha! ha! Then it's a very sinful practice. I don't
think that ever gets beyond the local tropical market. I know
the merchants judge largely by "the skin," but I thought the
London broker----.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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