Collections and RecollectionsRussell, George William Erskine
History
Collections and Recollections
Russell, George William Erskine
England -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Bread and Beer. Potage de Tortue. Calipash. Calipees. Un Paté de
Jambon de Bayone. Potage Julien Verd. Two Turbots to remove the
Soops. Haunch of Venison. Palaits de Mouton. Selle de Mouton.
Salade. Saucisses au Ecrevisses. Boudin Blanc à le Reine. Petits
Patés à l'Espaniol. Coteletts a la Cardinal. Selle d'Agneau glacé
aux Cocombres. Saumon à la Chambord. Fillets de Saules Royales. Une
bisque de Lait de Maquereaux. Un Lambert aux Innocents. Des Perdrix
Sauce Vin de Champaign. Poulets à le Russiene. Ris de Veau en
Arlequin. Quée d'Agneau à la Montaban. Dix Cailles. Un Lapreau. Un
Phésant. Dix Ortolans. Une Tourte de Cerises. Artichaux à le
Provensalle. Choufleurs au flour. Cretes de Cocq en Bonets. Amorte
de Jesuits. Salade. Chicken. Ice Cream and Fruits. Fruit of various
sorts, forced. Fruit from Market. Butter and Cheese. Clare.
Champaign. Burgundy. Hock. White Wine. Madeira. Sack. Cape. Cyprus.
Neuilly. Usquebaugh. Spa and Bristol Waters. Oranges and Lemons.
Coffee and Tea. Lemonade.
The total charge for this dinner for seven amounted to £81, 11s. 6d.,
and a footnote informs the curious reader that there was also "a turtle
sent as a Present to the Company, and dressed in a very high _Gout_
after the West Indian Manner." Old cookery-books, such as the misquoted
work of Mrs. Glasse, Dr. Kitchener's _Cook's Oracle_, and the anonymous
but admirable _Culina_, all concur in their testimony to the enormous
amount of animal food which went to make an ordinary meal, and the
amazing variety of irreconcilable ingredients which were combined in a
single dish. Lord Beaconsfield, whose knowledge of this recondite branch
of English literature was curiously minute, thus describes--no doubt
from authentic sources--a family dinner at the end of the eighteenth
century:--
"The ample tureen of _potage royal_ had a boned duck swimming in its
centre. At the other end of the table scowled in death the grim
countenance of a huge roast pike, flanked on one side by a leg of mutton
_à la daube_, and on the other by the tempting delicacies of Bombarded
Veal. To these succeeded that masterpiece of the culinary art a grand
Battalia Pie, in which the bodies of chickens, pigeons, and rabbits were
embalmed in spices, cocks' combs, and savoury balls, and well bedewed
with one of those rich sauces of claret, anchovy, and sweet herbs in
which our grandfathers delighted, and which was technically termed a
Lear. A Florentine tourte or tansy, an old English custard, a more
refined blamango, and a riband jelly of many colours offered a pleasant
relief after these vaster inventions, and the repast closed with a dish
of oyster-loaves and a pomepetone of larks."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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