Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park RegionMattes, Merrill J.
History
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole: The Fur Trappers' Exploration of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton Park Region
Mattes, Merrill J.
Grand Teton National Park (Wyo.); Yellowstone National Park
It is not evident that information given by Gunnison and De Smet or any
of their predecessors relative to unusual phenomena on the Upper
Yellowstone greatly impressed representatives of the Federal Government.
Certainly no eagerness to verify these reports is betrayed in the
official instructions dated April 13, 1859, by which Captain Raynolds,
Corps of Topographical Engineers, was directed “to organize an
expedition for the exploration of the region of the country through
which flow the principal tributaries of the Yellowstone river, and of
the mountains in which they, and the Gallatin and Madison forks of the
Missouri, have their source.” However, since one of the objects of this
exploration was to ascertain the principal topographical features and
since, moreover, the indispensable Bridger was secured as a guide, it
would seem that the Yellowstone marvels were just about to be officially
discovered and proclaimed. Not so, however. The expedition left winter
camp on Platte River in May 1860. While a detachment under Lieutenant
Henry E. Maynadier went north along the eastern slope of the Absaroka
Range, the main party ascended Wind River to Union Pass, then turned
north seeking the headwaters of the Yellowstone. Deep snow and a great
“basaltic ridge” blocked their efforts before they reached Two Ocean
Pass, and they had to satisfy themselves with encircling the Park area
via Jackson’s Hole, Teton Pass, Henry’s Fork, and Raynolds’ Pass. By way
of the Madison, they rejoined Maynadier at the Three Forks. Raynolds’
report and map became the first recognition by the Federal Government of
the possible existence of volcanic activity in the region of the Upper
Yellowstone. For information regarding the “burning plains, immense
lakes, and boiling springs” and other unverifiable phenomena mentioned
he was, of course, indebted to his guide Bridger, with trimmings added
by Meldrum. On his “Map of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers,” within
the “enchanted enclosure” which now constitutes Yellowstone National
Park, the soldier-explorer had the courage to place “Yellowstone Lake,”
“Falls of the Yellowstone,” “Burnt Hole,” “Sulphur Mountain,” and
“Elephant’s Back Mt.,” all now recognizable features. This was an
extraordinary demonstration of faith in Bridger’s veracity. Because of
the Civil War, publication of the report was delayed until 1868, but the
map itself was first issued separately a few years earlier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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