De Amicis, Edmondo, 1846-1908 -- Travel -- Turkey -- Istanbul; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel
All along this part of the defences the vegetation is something quite
marvellous. Spreading trees grow from the very summits of the towers,
as though they stood in gigantic vases; garlands of brilliant flowers,
vines, and creepers droop and wave from the battlements; while below,
from the midst of a dense undergrowth of brambles, nettles, wild
strawberries, and lentisks, plane and willow trees cast their dark
shadows across the moat and its banks. Whole sections of the walls
are completely covered with vegetation flung like a green veil over
the brickwork and crumbling masonry, and concealing the cracks and
fissures. The moat is laid out in truck-gardens; on its banks are
flocks of sheep and goats grazing, whose keepers, Greek boys, lie
stretched out at full length under the trees; now and then a flock of
birds flies out from the walls, and the atmosphere is loaded with the
penetrating odor of wild grass; from those hoary ruins there comes
something of the joyous spirit of spring-time, and they look as
though they had been decked and wreathed for the triumphal procession
of a sultana. All at once a salt breath blew across my cheek, and,
raising my eyes, I saw far ahead of me the blue bosom of the Sea of
Marmora; at the same instant a voice seemed to murmur in my ear,
“The Castle of the Seven Towers,” arresting me in the middle of the
road with a vague feeling of inquietude; but, presently resuming my
walk, I passed first the ancient gate of Deuterou, and farther on
the Melandesias Gate,[C] coming at last face to face with the castle
itself. This place of ill omen, erected by Muhammad II. on the site
of the ancient Kyklobion of the Greeks[D] to defend the city at that
point where the sea and land walls join, was later, when further
victories had rendered Stambul secure from danger of attack, and it
was consequently no longer required as a fortress, converted into a
prison. To-day it is merely the skeleton of a castle guarded by a
handful of soldiers--a hated ruin, whose dark and gloomy associations
and sinister history are bywords among the people of Constantinople,
although strangers seldom see more of it than the fleeting glimpse to
be had from the decks of the steamer which bears them to the mouth of
the Golden Horn. By the Turks it is called Yedi Kuleh, and they regard
it much as the French did the Bastile and the English the Tower of
London--a monument recalling the most oppressive days of the tyranny of
the sultans.
[C] The Melandesias Gate is the same as the Silivri Gate,
mentioned above.--TRANS.
[D] Some authorities place the site of the Greek citadel
outside of the walls, on the Sea of Marmora.--TRANS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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