Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
Just opposite Fowey town a deep bite into the land cuts off a
projecting tongue, reached from the west by ferry, and the piled houses
upon it, falling down their mountain-side, lack something of the beauty
they might easily have had in such a situation. But further down, where
at Bodinnick ferry passengers are carried to and fro there is much to
admire. Bodinnick is an inland village which has fallen by accident upon
a seashore, at least that is the impression it gives. The walls are
lined with bladder seaweed, the seaweed that goes "pop" to the delight
of children. This hangs in black masses above the incoming water, but
over it rise woods and trees, and ivy and ferns, and all the
paraphernalia of a country lane. The ivy in fact tumbles riotously down
on the top of the seaweed! The cottages, maintaining their balance with
difficulty on the perilous slope rising from the ferry, are covered with
rose bushes. Candytuft and violets come out in their season to creep
over the rough stone walls; white pigeons flutter overhead and glimpses
of large-leaved plants of a kind more often associated with a tropical
climate, peep at one from backyards. There is nothing conventional or
suburban about Bodinnick! It takes no trouble to clear away the bits of
broken crockery or rusty tins; perhaps it likes the feeling of
homeliness they give, and the sleepy cats appear to like it too.
From Fowey there is one road and only one, which leads across the
headland westward to Par sands, but there is a choice of two routes by
railway, one running along beside the inlet, which is of course the
mouth of the River Fowey, and giving lovely views of the wooded reaches
about the mouth of its tributary the Lerryn, which, following the custom
of rivers in this district, has a considerable inlet to itself. While
Penpoll Creek, nearer the sea, affords a comfortable harbourage even in
a very high wind. But the one road and the two railways do not sum up
all the ways of getting out of Fowey, for you may persuade the burly
round-eyed old salt who has spent his life in crossing and recrossing
hundreds of times, to put you over at Bodinnick, and then you can wander
at your own sweet will by any of the innumerable tracks over the great
rectangle bounded on the west and north by Fowey River (which turns at a
right angle about Bodmin Road), and on the east by Looe River. This lump
of land is cut up and seamed by valleys and broken by hills. On the
sea-line, about halfway across, is the tiny fishing village--really a
fishing village this time--of Polperro, than which no quainter thing
exists in Britain. You drop down, down, down, to Polperro until you can
look up and see the cows grazing high overhead as you might in an Alpine
valley, and then you plunge into the miniature confused streets of the
town, and following them at random may or may not come out at the little
port, and walking along the rude jetty see the outer harbour and the
small beach.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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