Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
But those who are not familiar with the country should not wander far
from the road as the bogs and marshes are really dangerous. They find
their culmination in the odd little lake called Dozmare Pool associated
with the story of King Arthur. This has no apparent outlet, and was once
reported to be of fabulous depth.
Launceston stands in a category by itself; though both the preceding
towns are fairly hilly, it outdoes them magnificently in that respect!
The streets up from the station are so steep that only by one of them,
graded for the purpose, can vehicles mount at all. The others are merely
for foot-passengers. Yet if looked at on a map which does not give
contours, it will be seen that Launceston in reality is one very long
straggling street running from end to end with various branches. This
street dips down into the hollow where the railway is and mounts the
other side. Baring-Gould says of Launceston, "Scarcely another English
town has such a picturesque and continental appearance," but that is a
matter of opinion. The name, meaning Church-Castle-Town, is very
explanatory, for the church and castle are the two outstanding objects
of interest. The former is most curious, for every foot of the walls
outside is covered by granite carving, mostly of secular subjects and
hacked out instead of chiselled.
At the east end beneath the east window is a recess with a figure of
Mary Magdalene much worn and tormented, and no wonder, for it is one of
the Launceston superstitions that anyone who can chuck a pebble so as to
lodge on the statue's back--no easy feat as the slope is slippery--will
have a year's good luck, and many there be that try! The church is
dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene and is, as churches go, of no great age.
Curiously enough it was not at first the parish church but merely the
development of a chapel.
The present building dates from 1511 and the tower is older. What is
very singular, and accounts for the choice of subjects on its quaintly
carven walls, is that they were not designed for a sacred building at
all. They were done for Henry Ashe of Trecarell, a wealthy Cornishman
who had a great mansion and was rebuilding it regardless of cost; but in
the midst of the work his only son, a child, was drowned and the mother
died almost immediately from the shock, so the wretched father passed on
the granite carvings, designed for a gateway to his mansion, to the
church, where they now attract many curious visitors and adorn, not only
the walls but the very fine projecting south porch. The rose, the
pomegranate, the Prince of Wales's feathers are frequently repeated with
the arms of Trecarell and Ashe. In order to give it an ecclesiastical
finish certain sentences in Latin such as "Oh how terrible and fearful
is this place. Surely this is none other but the house of God and the
gate of heaven!" are embossed on shields round the base.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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