It is impossible to enumerate all the little points in the management
of looms, which it is the overlooker’s duty to perform; and only long
practical experience can teach their proper performance. However,
neglecting the derangements, which cause faults in the cloth, and
which will be treated of in the next chapter, we will refer to some
of the commoner mishaps. The shuttle flying out of the loom is caused
generally by some obstruction in the shed, floats, projecting reed,
top of shed too low or bottom too high, or by a crooked spindle or bad
picker. Cops flying off the shuttle peg may be attributed to too large
holes in the cop, or shuttle spring too weak or unpacked. When the
loom does not knock off when the weft is done, the fork may be bent
and thus lifted by grate, an end of weft may be hanging to the shuttle
sufficiently long to catch in the cloth and lift the fork. But for
the cause of this, and also of the loom knocking off when weft is not
broken, the weft stop-motion must be carefully watched. The picking
may sometimes be so strong as to throw the shuttle out of the loom, or
so weak as to allow it to be trapped by the closing shed. By judicious
setting of plate and bowls, any desired result may be obtained.
When by the shuttle binding too tightly in the box, etc., a fracture of
the weft is made, it is said to be “cut.”
THE WEAVERS.
The average weaver runs four looms, but in many sheds provision is
made for three, or even two-loom weavers, whilst qualifying themselves
for the higher number. In some North-East Lancashire towns five and
six-loom weavers are not infrequent on narrow strong goods. The
weaver’s duties require some little skill, and consist of piecing up
the broken ends of warp and drawing them through the heald and reeds,
filling the shuttles with weft and placing them in the loom as those in
working become empty, oiling, doffing “cuts,” putting in the coloured
headings--an important part of dhooty weaving--oiling, and performing
simple repairs.
The wages obtainable on ordinary goods, such as shirtings and printers,
should not be less than 11s. per pair, to give satisfactory results,
while 12s. 6d. per pair on dhooties and simplest fancy goods is good.
The waste in this process is important, four per cent. being allowable
on common yarns, say 36’s, this being reduced on finer and consequently
better copped yarns (weft).
The foregoing remarks apply to the weaving of plain cloths only, and
that by the most usual methods. In any process whatever, it may be that
some variation will be found to exist, and, before concluding this part
of the subject, the modifications of the one standard type of loom may
be referred to.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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