Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
I was at once conducted to my apartments, which, though the best in the
house, bore a most disgusting resemblance to a stable; and had scarcely
set my foot upon the floor, when my dragoman’s head appeared out of his
bedclothes, and he commenced a woeful tale of sufferings and alarms.
He was starving with hunger, and the monks had only given him a piece
of wretched bread that he could scarcely put his teeth into! For my
supper, the worthy brethren brought me an earthen pot of the dirtiest,
containing some cold turnips and a small piece of salt beef. Hungry as
I was I could not have touched them. Luckily for us the superior of the
cloisters appeared and ordered some wine and eggs to be brought. The
wine, which was excellent, revived us, and loosened the tongues of the
two monks who bore us company, and we chatted gaily far into the night.
This capital wine (Mavro) is of a very deep red colour, and is made in
the neighbouring village of Fini. Its effect upon my exhausted frame
was marvellous. I have often found during my journey in Cyprus that
a glass of Commanderia was the finest remedy for over fatigue, and I
quite understood the popular idea of its being by far the best medicine
in many cases of illness.
Early next morning I was roused by the bells, which were hung almost
directly over my head. Mass was being celebrated in the little church;
this was far too small for its village congregation, and the men were
standing outside with lights in their hands, whilst the women kept
farther in the background. When the celebration was over, the women and
girls seated themselves upon the trunks of some trees, and began eating
the food they had brought with them, whilst the men mounted to a rough
balcony in front of the cloister, and sat down upon some benches. The
two monks now appeared with baskets and earthen vessels, and after the
men had kissed their hands, presented each with a linen cloth to spread
over his knees, and then gave a plentiful supply of bread, cheese, and
wine. This repast was followed by a cup of coffee.
Amongst the women I noticed many with truly classic features, but in
most cases they had heavy figures. Two girls, however, were perfect
types of statuesque beauty, and would have made a sculptor’s heart leap
with joy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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