Over the silent sea and yet more silent land a supreme stillness reigns,
unbroken by the rustle of leaves or whirr of the invisible insect world.
The great sun hangs like a ball of fire in the pale skies, and fills the
land with dazzling light. The green earth, with all her wealth of fruit
and flowers in her lap, seems wrapt in a sweet languor, as though she
had fallen asleep and was smiling in her dreams; while her giant sons of
the forest and straggling children of the plains lift their leafy
fingers to their lips, and whisper to the wandering wind, “Hush! she is
weary, let her rest,” and the red roses and white lilies nod their heads
drowsily and sleep with her. The very dogs doze dreamily in the sun;
they don’t seem to have a good honest bark, or vigorous wag of the tail,
left in them. Life, the busy bustling nineteenth-century life we know
of, exists not here. We feel as though we had gone to sleep in the world
of to-day and been carried away in our dreams, and woke up in an ancient
city of two hundred years ago.
This dear, romantic St. Augustine! It is not grim with age, nor grey and
hoary with the rust of time. It is like an old-fashioned beauty who has
been lying in state through these long years, pranked in all her finery
of feathers, furbelows, paint, powder, and patches, and now wakes up and
walks and talks with us in the quaint stilted phraseology of old days.
Never was change of time and place so sudden, so strangely felt, as the
transition from brilliant Jacksonville and pretty pleasant Fernandina to
this quiet, quaint old-world city, wherein the dignity and simple grace
of the Spanish cavaliers who first conquered, settled and peopled it,
seems still to linger; we can almost fancy we see their shadowy forms
stoop their plumed heads as they pass in and out of their ancient homes,
with gilt spurs jangling and swords clanging at their heels. We are
steeped to the lips in the spirit of the middle ages all round us, and
everywhere we recognise the features and individualities of days dead
and gone.
The hotels, built expressly for the service of the travelling world, are
the only touches of modern life we find herein--no other thing of modern
birth dares lift its head in St. Augustine. As a rule the inhabitants
seem made to match the place--indeed, they are a part of it. Many are
the descendants of the early settlers, and they and their fathers before
them have lived there all their days, and still occupy the ancient
dwellings of their race.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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