“Provided they rule well, yes; and we’ve nothing to complain of now; the
laws are easy, and we are left to live and work in peace, though up to
the last few years we’ve been liable to hostile incursions of the
Indians. Why, I’ve seen them swarm over the bastions yonder, and come
swooping and yelling through the streets, filling the air with their
hideous war-cry--such scenes, dear ladies, as I dare not tell you of;
now we are under the American flag, and, the Blessed Lord be thanked, we
are at peace.”
He took us through his orchard at the back of the house, and on to a
small orange grove of about an acre, which he proudly informed us he
managed all himself. We gathered and ate some oranges--deliciously cool
and refreshing they were; he apologised for their size and scarcity, as
the trees had been stripped of their finest fruit some weeks ago.
As yet we had only caught a general view of St. Augustine, and we
hurried on to make acquaintance with its special features. The streets
are narrow and crooked, varying from ten to twenty feet wide, the
houses having verandahs or balconies jutting out overhead so close
together that the ladies thereon can almost shake hands across from one
side of the road to the other. There are no regular pavements or
sidewalks, and the roads are laid with broken oyster or mussel shells.
The houses are mostly built of a kind of compressed shell-stone called
“coquina,” which is quarried from the island of Anastasia, that lies
about a mile across the harbour and separates St. Augustine from the
Atlantic Ocean. This is the oldest European settlement in America, and
was so settled long before the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers. The most
picturesque and romantic of all the quaint old streets is George Street,
with its curious houses and hanging balconies clinging along the fronts
thereof, and are generally covered with climbing plants. The white
coquina walls rise straight and bare direct from the roadway; the
windows are small and closely curtained, as though the old Spanish dons
still jealously guarded their hidden beauties from the sight of man.
There is an air of great seclusion everywhere--we might be wandering
through an oriental city; but we know that behind these bare walls there
are blooming gardens of oleander, magnolia, orange and lemon trees;
occasionally we get a glimpse of some rich striped lily or glowing
passion-flower nodding over the wall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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