The pretty vessels of the yachting club, with white sails fluttering,
are curtseying to their own shadows on its surface. On the other side,
about three feet below the sea wall, is a wide, smooth, shell road,
where you may enjoy a delightful drive or promenade _au cheval_; here
and there are stone steps leading up to the wall, so that you are not
obliged to march along its whole length, or leap down at the risk of
breaking your neck. Fronting the water on the other side of the road is
Bay Street, the principal business thoroughfare of the city, where there
are some excellent shops, and queer old houses which take boarders all
the year round, for the winter cold, or summer heat, is never excessive
in St. Augustine; it is one of the few Floridian resorts which is
pleasant at all seasons. The temperature, calculated by a study of the
thermometer for the last ten years, is for summer about 80 Fahrenheit;
autumn, 70 to 75; winter, 58 to 60--a most delightful temperature,
especially as there is generally a soft balmy east wind blowing, though
occasionally in the winter time a wild north-easter, in its fiercest
mood, sweeps over the Atlantic, and wreaks its vengeance on St.
Augustine and the surrounding coast. People are inclined to smash the
thermometer which dares to register only sixty when this cruel wind is
biting them through!
At the other end of the sea wall, opposite the fort, are the United
States Barracks, jutting out at the water side; there is generally a
regiment stationed here, when the band plays every day at five o’clock
during the season. Although this quaint dreamy old city is but a small
place, there is much of interest to be seen here.
There is the “Plaza de la Constitution,” where the good Christians
burnt their brethren a century ago; it is a large square, laid out with
grass plots, and flower beds, with paths cut through, leading from one
side of the Plaza to the other. In the centre stands the curious old
market-place, roofed in at the top, but open on all sides; this was the
ancient slave mart, where “God’s image, carved in ebony,” was bought and
sold in most ungodly fashion; there is the place where they stood,
ranged in rows like cattle in a pen, so that their purchasers might walk
to and fro examining them from all points to see that they had their
money’s worth. They sit there now, these selfsame slaves of the old
days, with bright kerchiefs round their heads, surrounded by fruits and
flowers, buying and selling on their own account, laughing, chaffing,
bargaining with one another with the easy air that freedom gives. Close
by is the graceful monument erected by the ladies of St. Augustine to
the Confederate dead, whose names are carved upon the shaft. No matter
how impoverished the land may have been, how ruined the people, in every
Southern city, small or great, they have found money enough to erect a
monument,--some most costly, some poetic, and all more or less artistic,
to those who--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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