Down the YellowstoneFreeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
General
Down the Yellowstone
Freeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
Yellowstone River
I cannot agree with Mr. Neihardt that the Mississippi obliterates the
Missouri within a few hundred yards, or even a few hundred miles; for in
all but name it is the latter, not the former, that mingles its mud with
the Gulf of Mexico. But in his contention that the Yellowstone is the
dominant stream where it joins the Missouri he is borne out by all that
I saw and the opinion of every authority I talked with, from a
half-breed river-rat at Buford to the Army engineers at Kansas City.
My third reason for choosing the Yellowstone was the technical
consideration of superior "boatability." The head of continuous
small-boat navigation on the Yellowstone is about at the northern
boundary of the Park, at an elevation of over five thousand feet. On
the Missouri it is at Fort Benton, below the cataracts of Great Falls,
whose elevation is less than half that of Gardiner. As the distance from
these respective points to the junction of the two rivers near the
Montana-North Dakota line is about the same, it is evident that the rate
of fall of the Yellowstone is many times greater than that of the Upper
Missouri below Benton. Indeed, the figures are, roughly, 3000 feet fall
for the former and 500 for the latter. This means that the Yellowstone
is much the swifter stream and, being also of considerably greater
volume, is infinitely preferable to the boatman who does not mind more
or less continuous white water. In addition to these points, the fact
that the Yellowstone, from the Park to its mouth, flows through one of
the most beautiful valleys in America while the Missouri meanders a
considerable distance among the Bad Lands, makes the former route the
pleasanter as well as the swifter one. These considerations, pretty
well in my mind before I started, were more than borne out in every
respect by my subsequent experience. There are two or three large rivers
down which boats (by frequent linings and portagings) can be taken which
are of greater fall than the Yellowstone, but I know of none anywhere in
the world on which such fast time can be made as on the latter--this
because its rapids are all runnable.
As I was not out for records of any description upon this trip, it was
no part of my plan to start from the remotest source of the Yellowstone,
some twenty-five miles south of the southern boundary of the Park, but
rather simply to follow down from the most convenient point where the
Continental Divide tilted to that river's upper water-shed. Following
the river as closely as might be by foot through the Park, it was then
my purpose to take train to Livingston and resume my voyage from about
where it had been abandoned two decades previously. As the steel skiff I
had ordered was extremely light, and of a type quite new to me, I did
not care to make my trial run through "Yankee Jim's Canyon."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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