Down the YellowstoneFreeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
General
Down the Yellowstone
Freeman, Lewis R. (Lewis Ransome)
Yellowstone River
I descended to the river at several points in the Canyon, but found it
quite impossible to proceed down stream any distance in the bottom of
the gorge. The fall is tremendous all the way through and I doubt if
there are many stretches of over a few hundred yards in length in which
a boat could live. The total fall from the Lake to the foot of the Grand
Canyon is something like three thousand feet, probably not far from a
hundred feet to the mile. I cannot recall offhand a river of so great a
volume anywhere in the world that has so considerable a fall. The Indus,
in the great bend above Leh, in Ladakh, may approximate such a drop, and
so may the Brahmaputra, where it cleaves the main range of the Himalayas
after passing Lhassa. The Yangtse, where it comes tumbling down from the
Tibetan plateau into Szechuan, is hardly more than a mountain torrent.
With the possible exception of the main affluents of the Upper Amazon in
the Peruvian Cordillera, these are the only great rivers in the running
for a record of this kind.
In walking from the Grand Canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs I followed the
road over Mount Washburn, stopping for the night at Camp Roosevelt,
below Tower Falls. This most recently established of the Park camps
takes its name from the fact that it is located on the spot where
Roosevelt and John Burroughs made headquarters on the occasion of their
winter tour of the Yellowstone a decade and a half ago. The best
fishing in the Park is found in this section, and for that reason the
management has developed and maintained it very largely as a sporting
camp. Only those with a really genuine love of the out-of-doors stop
there, while the regular ruck of the tourists pass it by. Those facts
alone set it apart in a class by itself as the pleasantest spot in the
Park for a prolonged sojourn.
On account of the class of people it attracts, Roosevelt has been made
rather a pet of the management from its inception. This is especially
true of personnel. The wholly charming couple--a Kentucky gentleman and
his wife--whom I found in charge last summer presided over the camp as
over a country home in the Blue Grass. The staff--all college boys and
girls--was practically a complete Glee Club in itself. Good sports, too.
Roosevelt was the only camp at which I did not find myself consumed with
longing for the primeval solitude of the Park as I had known it on my
winter tour--during the closed season for tourists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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