Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
=Application.=—These facts were discovered by Perkin while trying to
introduce his Mauveine into the dyeing industry, and he discovered
the methods, used to this day, for applying these dyes to the
different textile materials. He found that the dyes of this class
have a strong affinity for the different animal fibres, such as
wool, silk, leather, etc., all of which seem to possess some acid
properties of their own; but pure vegetable materials, like cotton,
linen, and paper, from which all impurities such as vegetable acids,
gums, etc., have been removed, have no affinity at all for even the
most powerful of the Basic dyes. A cotton handkerchief, boiled for
hours in a strong solution of Methyl Violet, can be washed in a few
minutes clear of every particle of color, while a piece of silk or
wool, soaked for an instant in the same dye-bath, will be permanently
stained, deep and full.
_Cotton, Linen, etc._—In order to fasten these dyes to vegetable
fibre it is necessary to give the latter a distinctly acid character,
and this was done by Perkin in a manner still used. He steeped the
material for several hours in a hot bath of the acid vegetable
compound, tannic acid or tannin, found so largely in hemlock and
chestnut bark, sumac leaves, nut-galls, and the like; and then
loosely fixed the tannin, thus absorbed, by a weak bath of tartar
emetic. Cotton or linen fabrics, thus “mordanted,” will combine with
the Basic dyes as readily and as firmly as any animal fibre, and the
resulting colors, while not, as a rule, fast to light, are extremely
fast to washing.
Since the introduction of the direct cotton dyes, both Salt colors
and Sulphur colors, this method of dyeing, for skeins or piece goods,
has been largely discontinued; but, by using a modification of this
process, enormous quantities of Basic colors are still employed,
on cotton and linen, in the manufacture of calicoes, organdies, and
other printed fabrics.
Curiously enough the Salt and the Sulphur colors, in almost every
instance, possess sufficient acid properties of their own to act
as very fair mordants for the Basic colors. Accordingly, it is not
uncommon for dyers to “top,” with Basic colors, cotton or linen goods
dyed directly. In the case of the Salt colors, this increases their
fastness to washing, and with Sulphur colors it makes the shades more
brilliant.
Most vegetable materials that are used in a more or less natural
condition, like straw, raffia, grass, wood-shavings, jute, and the
like, contain enough of this natural tannic acid to act as a mordant
for the Basic colors, which may in this direction be used as direct
dyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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