Dyes and dyeingPellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Science
Dyes and dyeing
Pellew, Charles E. (Charles Ernest), Viscount Exmouth
Dyes and dyeing
These Basic colors do not dissolve readily in water, but are easily
soluble in alcohol, and also in even very dilute acids. Acids form
salts with the dyestuffs and these salts dissolve when the free
coloring matters do not. Accordingly the Basic colors should always
be dissolved carefully in a separate cup or vessel, using hot water,
and adding, for each spoonful of dyestuff, two or three spoonfuls of
acetic acid or, if more convenient, of strong vinegar.
The color, thus dissolved, should be added to warm water in the
dye-pot, preferably through a fine strainer or piece of cheesecloth,
to avoid any undissolved particles which would cause spots. The
well-wetted goods are immersed in this dye-bath, and turned, either
in the cold or with gentle heat, until the desired shade is reached,
or the bath is exhausted. The material is then taken out, rinsed once
or twice in water, cold or warm, carefully dried, and, if necessary,
straightened and pressed or ironed out.
_Straw._—Care must be taken when dyeing these materials to have them
quite free from grease and dirt, before dyeing them. If they do
not wet readily and evenly, after being soaked in warm water for a
couple of hours, they should be carefully washed in warm soapsuds,
and thoroughly rinsed. The soap, however, should be of good quality
and, especially with straw, either in the form of straw braid or made
up into hats, no soda or other free alkali should be allowed in the
bath, for fear of injuring the surface and destroying the gloss. This
last is sometimes improved by dipping the straw, after dyeing and
rinsing, into a weak bath of Castile (olive oil) soap, or of Turkey
red oil (about one tablespoonful to the gallon), before it is dried.
In dyeing straw, the greatest pains must be taken to dye it evenly.
Braid should be tied up in loose hanks or bundles, so that the
dyestuff can penetrate readily into every part; and with a loop
of tape or string, by which it can be raised or lowered in the
dye-bath. It should be kept in motion sufficiently to cause uniform
circulation of the liquid. The dye-bath should not be too strong,
especially at the beginning, and should be heated slowly to the
boiling point, where it should be kept for half an hour or so, to
insure penetration. It is best to add the dyestuff in small portions,
from time to time, as the bath becomes exhausted, lifting the goods
out of the bath each time, and stirring in the new color before
putting the goods back again. If the goods once become uneven it is
very hard, if not impossible, to get them level again, or to strip
them fully, without spoiling the materials. The best thing to do, if
this misfortune overtakes them, is to dye them some dark color, where
minor irregularities will be covered up and pass unnoticed. In other
words, “Dump it in the black,” as the dyers say.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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