Edinburgh: Painted by John Fulleylove; described by Rosaline MassonMasson, Rosaline
History
Edinburgh: Painted by John Fulleylove; described by Rosaline Masson
Masson, Rosaline
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
On the north side of the High Street, on either side of John Knox’s
manse, are two edifices whose outside decorations usually excite the
wonder of the stranger. One of these, Bailie Fyfe’s Close (where Miss
Nicky Murray “finished” her country cousins in all the airs and graces
of the eighteenth century), is the “Heave awa’ Tavern,” and bears the
head of a young lad carved in stone, and the words “Heave awa’ chaps,
I’m no dead yet!” It was here that, on Sunday morning, 24th November
1861, a fine old dwelling, dating from 1612, sank suddenly, and buried
thirty-five people in its ruins. This is the event of which Stevenson
speaks in his _Picturesque Notes_,--enveloping it in a haze of gloom and
rhetoric, and somehow conveying the impression that the fall was a
judgment from Heaven on the city for some sin unknown, but grimly
hinted--possibly its climate. But Stevenson omits the touch of heroism
that crowns the tragedy: the boy whose brave young voice was heard under
the beams and masonry that the rescuers were digging at--“Heave awa’
chaps, I’m no deid yet!” A building on the Canongate side of John Knox’s
manse, a little way farther on, bears the enormous figure of what might
be thought to be an Ethiopian, did not the name “Morocco Close” prove it
intended for a Moor. There are several legends to account for this
effigy; but all agree in giving an Edinburgh maiden (some make her the
daughter of the Provost) to reign over the harem of the Sultan of
Morocco. Some versions say that it was her brother who, having gained
wealth by merchant dealings with his Morocco connexions, proudly
decorated his house with an imaginary portrait of his brother-in-law,
whom he has dressed in a necklace and a turban.
A little farther on is a close commonly called “Bible Close,” from the
fact that it has a large open book carved over its entrance, on the
pages of which is engraved a verse from the metrical version of the
133rd Psalm:--
Behold, how good a thing it is,
And how becoming well,
Together such as brethren are
In unity to dwell.
This is Shoemakers’ Land; and the sentiment was evidently a favourite
one, for the Cordiners’ land in West Port, and a court-house in
Potterrow, also bore it.
It is in the Canongate that the most stately buildings remain, a fact
not wonderful when one learns that in the eighteenth century, before the
Scottish nobles “left their hame,” the Canongate included among its
residents no less than two Dukes, sixteen Earls, two Countesses, seven
Barons of the Realm, thirteen Baronets, four Commanders-in-Chief, seven
Lords of Session, and five “eminent men”; not to mention a bank, a
ladies’ school, and two inns. What material for romance! Some of the
background remains, though the actors are gone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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