Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The farm is older. It was first a grange of Whitekirk Abbey, tilled and
inhabited by rosy friars. Thence, after the Reformation, it passed into
the hands of a true-blue Protestant family. During the covenanting
troubles, when a night conventicle was held upon the Pentlands, the farm
doors stood hospitably open till the morning; the dresser was laden with
cheese and bannocks, milk and brandy; and the worshippers kept slipping
down from the hill between two exercises, as couples visit the
supper-room between two dances of a modern ball. In the Forty-Five, some
foraging Highlanders from Prince Charlie’s army fell upon Swanston in the
dawn. The great-grandfather of the late farmer was then a little child;
him they awakened by plucking the blankets from his bed, and he
remembered, when he was an old man, their truculent looks and uncouth
speech. The churn stood full of cream in the dairy, and with this they
made their brose in high delight. ‘It was braw brose,’ said one of them.
At last they made off, laden like camels with their booty; and Swanston
Farm has lain out of the way of history from that time forward. I do not
know what may be yet in store for it. On dark days, when the mist runs
low upon the hill, the house has a gloomy air as if suitable for private
tragedy. But in hot July, you can fancy nothing more perfect than the
garden, laid out in alleys and arbours and bright, old-fashioned
flower-plots, and ending in a miniature ravine, all trellis-work and moss
and tinkling waterfall, and housed from the sun under fathoms of broad
foliage.
The hamlet behind is one of the least considerable of hamlets, and
consists of a few cottages on a green beside a burn. Some of them (a
strange thing in Scotland) are models of internal neatness; the beds
adorned with patchwork, the shelves arrayed with willow-pattern plates,
the floors and tables bright with scrubbing or pipe-clay, and the very
kettle polished like silver. It is the sign of a contented old age in
country places, where there is little matter for gossip and no street
sights. Housework becomes an art; and at evening, when the cottage
interior shines and twinkles in the glow of the fire, the housewife folds
her hands and contemplates her finished picture; the snow and the wind
may do their worst, she has made herself a pleasant corner in the world.
The city might be a thousand miles away, and yet it was from close by
that Mr. Bough painted the distant view of Edinburgh which has been
engraved for this collection; and you have only to look at the etching,
{118} to see how near it is at hand. But hills and hill people are not
easily sophisticated; and if you walk out here on a summer Sunday, it is
as like as not the shepherd may set his dogs upon you. But keep an
unmoved countenance; they look formidable at the charge, but their hearts
are in the right place, and they will only bark and sprawl about you on
the grass, unmindful of their master’s excitations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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