Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat: In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4Roberts, Edmund
History
Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat: In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4
Roberts, Edmund
Southeast Asia -- Commerce; Southeast Asia -- Description and travel
It being Sunday, we attended a Bethel-meeting on board the ship
Superior; the service being performed by the Rev. Mr. Stevens, who had
just arrived from New Haven. We found, lying in Whampoa-reach, a great
number of English and American vessels, extending from two to three
miles. Whampoa, where the ships anchor, is between Dane and French
islands, and part of the island of Whampoa. Foreigners are allowed to
visit Danes’ island, but they are not allowed to visit the city of
Whampoa, the suburbs being filled with vile wretches, who endeavour,
upon every occasion, to create a quarrel, by using insulting language
and throwing stones; and when they outnumber the foreigners, a hundred
to one, they beat them with long bamboos, to the great risk of their
lives. The land on Whampoa island, is generally very low, and banked,
to keep out the tide. It is well cultivated with rice, cane, savo-root,
and other vegetables. Several pagodas are in sight from the anchorage,
and one that has been built “time out of mind,” is near the town of
Whampoa, nine stories high.
[Sidenote: CITY OF CANTON.]
At noon, we left the shipping for Canton, and in three hours arrived
at the factories, situated near the river, in the suburbs of the city
of Canton. The river was thickly covered with boats going in all
directions, from the humble sampan to the gay and splendid mandarin
boats, having streamers flying, gongs beating, and manned with a great
number of oars. Numberless boats were fishing, with every sort of
apparatus; others conveying the harvest of rice home, sculled by two
long oars, each manned by six stout fellows, the perspiration running
down their almost naked bodies in streams.
Every foot of land is cultivated or covered with buildings; boats,
without number, are moored along its banks the whole distance; but
within three or four miles of the factories, the crowd of vessels was
prodigious. Large men-of-war junks, of a most unwieldly and primitive
construction; flower-boats, kept for infamous purposes; pleasure-boats;
marriage-boats; and boats which carry bands of comedians, were lying in
all directions. Many of them have beautiful lattice-work sides, painted
green, and gilt with good taste. All the vessels on the river have one
distinguishing mark, an immense large eye on each side of the bow. “How
can you see,” say the Chinese, “spose hab no eye?” Small ferry-boats,
the residence of whole families, are constantly plying between the
city, or rather the suburbs, and Houani; also, boats laden with tea and
silk goods, from the interior or going to Whampoa; market, victualling,
and pedlars’ boats; boats of a peculiar construction, laden with oil in
bulk; others filled with coarse China ware, bamboo hats, and baskets;
umbrellas, and beautiful lanterns, covered with various devices;
and every thing that can be named, from silks and teas to fat pups,
fish-maws, and trussed rats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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