Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
How shall I record all the tumultuous impressions of the first
twenty-four hours passed in Irkutsk? After the gloom of the night a
brilliant morning broke forth, brilliant as it is only seen on these
high plateaux. As I took my first glance round, everything seemed to
swim in a blaze of light. The small log houses seemed to have grown into
palaces. The palisades presented colours of hundreds of different
shades. Monuments and gilded domes seemed to have arisen out of the
ground. All the gloomy picture of last night vanished altogether,
dispersed by the light of the sun like the melting away of a nightmare.
What a magician this celestial body is! Painter, sculptor, and
architect, he can construct and raise marvels out of nothing, and
make us see and admire where all is only glamour.
As I walk down to the Angara's banks I am short of adjectives. Language
fails to describe the pureness of the atmosphere, the variety of the
tints of the distant mists, and the whole scenery of the plain with its
vibrating mirages. I think it is at the early hours of the morn and at
sunset that one can best realize the charm of this strange country,
understand the dreamy legends which were born on the soil, realize the
soul of its people, and penetrate into its wondrous atmosphere, full of
enigmas and mysteries.
Irkutsk is a large and important centre, the seat of the military and
civil governors, of the Catholic bishop, of the commander of the forces.
There are high schools, many public institutions, and factories. Irkutsk
is a famous commercial town, and is one of the most prominent markets
for international trade. The high street is an endless row of shops,
full of goods made in Germany, and some in America. I do not see much
English merchandise; but, as I hear, English commercial interests are
only represented in a few of the larger mines and building enterprises.
The Siberian national museum deserves special mention. It is a fine
stone building, rich in all that relates to the origin, history, and
folk-lore of Siberia. A few hours passed in its halls give one a most
extensive insight into the conditions of the different races and tribes
which have peopled these regions for centuries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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