Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
It is snowing hard. The feathery flakes fly and skim like so many
white-winged butterflies against the pale grey sky. It is bitterly cold,
and the windows of my railway carriage are thickly frozen over, and when
they clear there is not much to be seen. The high mountains have
disappeared, and there is no majestic plain before us. The whole
district is hilly, with here and there a river, and very scant
vegetation. Villages seem to be unknown, and the first place of any
importance we stop at is Petrovsk, a locality which owes its origin to
its deep mines, enormous factories, and a large prison to furnish the
workmen. What a gloomy site! Never have I seen factories and forges more
desolate, and never has smoke appeared heavier and blacker to me than
that which I see puffing from the numberless chimneys. It is an inferno,
whose horrors only the genius of a Dante could describe. And if Petrovsk
had a city gate, its sole inscription could be "Lasciate ogni speranza
voi ch' entrate."
And how many have entered this ghastly place! How many of the Russian
and Polish nobles have been exiled here! Nariskins, Mouravievs,
Anenkoffs, Volkonskys, Troubetzkois--we find descendants of all. How
many historical families have had their political aspirations stranded
here! The miseries of Omsk have been described by Dostoievsky, but those
of Petrovsk will never be entirely known. Many of the exiles have been
followed by their brave wives, ladies of marvellous courage, leaving
palaces to follow their husbands and to suffer voluntary exile.
Through the frozen lands of Trans-Baikalia we continue our way. I am
told the country is very rich. There are over thirty mines in work at
present, and there might be a great many more. Where they have already
started farming it has proved a great success, and some of the towns
show signs of rising commercial activity; but I know not why this part
of Siberia misses altogether the great charm, in admiration of which I
was lost a few days ago. The high plateau of the Baskirs, the steppes
of the Kirghiz, and the dense forests of the Kalmuks, all had a peculiar
charm and atmosphere; but Trans-Baikalia, though undoubtedly possessing
great economic possibilities, seems to have no beauty at all. The
inhabitants are Buriats, and nomads, like the others, but lack their
sympathetic features, and seem so strange--so entirely different. Their
yellow, parchment-like skins and beady eyes lack all expression, or if
they have any, it is so incomprehensible to us that we look at them as
mere curiosities--as children belonging to another planet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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