Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and LuskodVay, Péter
History
Empires and Emperors of Russia, China, Korea, and Japan: Notes and Recollections by Monsignor Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod
Vay, Péter
Asia -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Far East)
It was night when we returned to the station, where an agreeable
surprise awaited me. I was told that a goods train with a convoy of
coolies and troops to repair the line which had been destroyed, would be
ready to start a little after midnight. Could my carriage be attached to
it? I inquired. At first it seemed doubtful. No one appeared to know how
far we could get, and there was even some question as to whether the
road would bear the weight of the train. However, anything, no matter
what, would be better than Kharbin, I thought; even the uncertainty of
the future was preferable to the certainty of the present.
About three o'clock in the morning, after an interminable night of
bustling, coming and going of troops, rushing about of coolies, shunting
and whistling of engines, we at last began to move. The train presented
a curious appearance. It consisted chiefly of open trucks and a few
wagons in which the soldiers lay huddled together, with their winter
coats tucked under their heads for pillows, while hundreds of coolies
were packed like cattle in the open carriages.
At first we passed slowly through a vast, partially submerged plain.
Often the road was entirely under water, and in various places so badly
damaged that we had to proceed with the greatest possible caution. More
than once the coolies had to turn out with pickaxe, shovel, and building
material to repair the line, under the strict supervision of the
officers of the railway service. I availed myself of the frequent
stoppages and our altogether casual progress to study the country.
When at last we reached the large province of Central Manchuria there
was a notable change in the geographical aspect. The ground became hilly
and wooded. We followed several winding valleys, irrigated by tortuous
watercourses, and surrounded by mountain ridges. In some parts it was
decidedly pretty. The soil is fertile, and nature has endowed it with
many precious gifts. The mountain slopes are rich in minerals and the
woods abound with game. The mineral wealth of Manchuria is as yet
unexplored, and there are comparatively few gold, silver, and copper
mines in process of exploitation. Some foreign syndicates have been
formed, more especially in the south, and these have proved successful,
but since the Russian occupation of the railway district they have been
hampered by all sorts of difficulties, and except in the free port of
Niu-chwang, the introduction of foreign capital has been stopped.
In actual size Central Manchuria is considerably smaller than the
northern district of Tsi-tsi-kar--also known as Halung-kiang--but the
population of the north is only about one million, while Central
Manchuria contains twice as many inhabitants. The seat of government for
this latter district is at Kirin, a very ancient town with quaint houses
built in the old Chinese style, yamens with shining roofs, temples and
pagodas, all very picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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