After that hour the railroad ran through a farming country all the way
to Dublin. I was amused with the queer shapes of the fields. These
were generally small, and running into sharp corners, regardless of
convenience in cultivation. They were separated always by hedges and
ditches. A ditch was dug some two feet deep and three or four feet
wide, the dirt was thrown up into a bank to correspond on one side, and
on this bank was planted a hedge of hawthorn--“quick-set” they commonly
called it. These hedges were of all ages, from those young and well
kept to those in all stages of growth and dilapidation. I could have
passed everywhere from field to field through breaks in the hedges,
sometimes wide ones. I could not see of what use they were except for
hunters to jump over. Saw occasionally a laborer’s cabin, sometimes
a group of them. When an Irishman came out to sun himself, he always
stood higher than the eaves of his thatched roof. Occasionally a more
pretentious house would appear. These were all alike, painted white,
full of windows, very thin from front to back, and looked like waffles
set on edge. Never did I see a tree or a bush about a house to relieve
the appearance of barrenness, but there were often small trees in the
hedge-rows.
The railway station on one side of Dublin was about four miles from
the station on the opposite side, from which a short railway ran
to Kingston, a point a little distance south of Dublin, from which
the channel boats crossed to Holyhead. There being no other means
of conveyance, I rode through Dublin in an open van sitting on the
mail-bags. At the Kingston station an empty train stood waiting for the
mails. The regular passenger-train had gone some time before, but the
boat at Kingston was also waiting for the mail. I got into a carriage,
having ordered my trunk put into the baggage-van, but was ordered out
by the guard. I showed him my ticket, and was told that I would have
to see the superintendent. That official appeared, and told me this
train was for the mails. It had an empty passenger-coach. I showed him
my ticket and told him the assurance on which I had bought it, that I
should go through with the mails. He replied that the passenger-train
had gone, I should have been here to take it. Said he was very sorry,
but it was impossible. I got mad. My trunk stood on the platform. As
nobody would touch it, I took it up and put it into the open door of
the baggage-van myself. The superintendent ordered two men to take it
out, which they did. I told him of my great anxiety to reach London
that afternoon. All the reply he made was to repeat that he was very
sorry, but it was impossible, and I was compelled to stand there and
see that train move off, and fool away the whole day in Dublin. Does
the reader want to know what the matter was? If he does not know
already, he is as green as I was. I had not given the superintendent
two and sixpence. But I had more yet to learn about England and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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