Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
To begin with, the valley of the Stour. There can be few valleys in
this part of England more lovely than this steep and wide vale,
through the hop gardens, the woods and meadows of which, the Great
Stour proceeds like a royal pilgrim, half in state to Canterbury, and
on to the mystery of the marshes, and its death in the sea. Above
Canterbury certainly, and all along my way, there is not a meadow nor
a wood, nor indeed a single mile of that landscape, which has not been
contrived and created by man, by the love and labour of our fathers
through how many thousand years. And this is part of the virtue of
England, that it is as it were a garden of our making, a pleasaunce we
have built, a paradise and a home after our own hearts. And in that
divine and tireless making we, without knowing it, have so moulded
ourselves that we are one with it, it is a part of us, a part of our
character and nature. There lie ever before us our beginnings, the
earthworks we once defended, the graves we built, the defeats, the
victories, the holy places. By these a man lives, out of these he
draws slowly and with a sort of confidence the uncertain future, glad
indeed of this divine assurance that there is nothing new under the
sun.
Such monuments of an antiquity so great that they have no history but
what may be gathered from barrows and stones, accompany one upon any
day's journey in southern England, but it is only in one place that a
man can stand and say: Here began the history of my country. That
place as it happens lies as it should upon the Pilgrims' Road.
Beyond Harbledown, some two miles from Canterbury, he Pilgrims' Road
along the hillside passes clean through earthwork of unknown antiquity.
Well, it was here the Seventh Legion charged: here, indeed, we stand
upon the very battlefield which saw the birth of civilisation in our
island. Lying there in the early morning sunshine I considered it all
over again.
Caesar's first landing in Britain in B.C. 55 had been, as he himself
tells us, merely a reconnaissance. In the following summer, however,
he returned in force, indeed with a very considerable army, and with
the intention of bringing us, too, within that great administration
which he and his adoptive son Augustus were to do so much to make a
final and in many ways an indestructible thing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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