We have the roundlet, then, for principal head-gear in this reign, but
we must not forget that the hood is not dead; it is out of the strict
realms of fashion, but it is now a practical country garment, or is
used for riding in towns. There are also other forms of
head-wear--tall, conical hats with tall brims of fur, some brims cut
or scooped out in places; again, the hood may have a furred edge
showing round the face opening; then we see a cap which fits the head,
has a long, loose back falling over the neck, and over this is worn a
roll or hoop of twisted stuff. Then there is the sugar-loaf hat, like
a circus clown's, and there is a broad, flat-brimmed hat with a round
top, like Noah's hat in the popular representations of the Ark.
[Illustration: {Two men of the time of Henry VI.}]
Besides these, we have the jester's three-peaked hood and one-peaked
hood, the cape of which came, divided into points, to the knees, and
had arms with bell sleeves.
Let us see what manner of man we have under such hats: almost without
exception among the gentlemen we have the priestly hair--that queer,
shaved, tonsure-like cut, but without the circular piece cut away from
the crown of the head.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry VI.}]
The cut of the tunic in the body has little variation; it may be
longer or shorter, an inch above or an inch below the knee, but it is
on one main principle. It is a loose tunic with a wide neck open in
front about a couple or three inches; the skirt is full, and may be
cut up on one or both sides; it may be edged with fur or some stuff
different to the body of the garment, or it may be jagged, either in
regular small scoops or in long fringe-like jags. The tunic is always
belted very low, giving an odd appearance to the men of this time, as
it made them look very short in the leg.
The great desire for variety is displayed in the forms of sleeve for
this tunic: you may have the ordinary balloon sleeve ending in a stuff
roll or fur edge for cuff, or you may have a half-sleeve, very wide
indeed, like shoulder-capes, and terminated in the same manner as the
bottom of the tunics--that is, fur-edged tunic, fur-edged sleeve, and
so on, as described; under this shows the tight sleeve of an
undergarment, the collar of which shows above the tunic collar at the
neck. The length of these shoulder-cape sleeves varies according to
the owner's taste, from small epaulettes to heavy capes below the
elbow. There is also a sleeve tight from wrist to below the elbow, and
at that point very big and wide, tapering gradually to the shoulder.
You will still see one or two high collars rolled over, and there is a
distinct continuance of the fashion for long-pointed shoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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