Look out of your window and see upon the flower-enamelled turf a
hundred bundles of vanity taking the air. The heads of these ladies
are carried very erect, as are all heads bearing weights. The waists
of these ladies are apparently under their bosoms; their feet seem to
be an ell long. An assembly hour is, after the manner of Lydgate's
poem, a dream of delicious faces surmounted by minarets, towers,
horns, excrescences of every shape--enormous, fat, heart-shaped
erections, covered with rich, falling drapery, or snow-white linen, or
gold tissue; gold-wire boxes sewn with pearls and blazing with
colours; round, flat-topped caps, from under which girls' hair escapes
in a river of colour; crown shapes, circular shapes, mitre shapes,
turbans, and shovel-shaped linen erections, wired into place.
Oh, my lady, my lady! how did you ever hear the soft speeches of
gallantry? How did the gentle whispers of love ever penetrate those
bosses of millinery?
[Illustration: {Two types of head-dress for women}]
And the moralists, among whom Heaven forbid that I should be found,
painted lurid pictures for you of hell and purgatory, in which such
head-dresses turned into instruments of torture; you lifted your
long-fingered, medieval hand and shook the finger with the toad-stone
upon it, as if to dispel the poison of their words.
I think it is beyond me to describe in understandable terms the proper
contortions of your towered heads, for I have little use for archaic
words, for crespine, henk, and jacque, for herygouds with honginde
sleeves, for all the blank cartridges of antiquarianism. I cannot
convey the triple-curved crown, the ear buttress, the magnet-shaped
roll in adequate language, but I can draw them for you.
[Illustration: {Two women of the time of Henry VI.}]
I will attempt the most popular of the roll head-dresses and the
simpler of the stiff-wired box. Take a roll, stuffed with hemp or tow,
of some rich material and twist it into the form of a heart in front
and a V shape behind, where join the ends, or, better, make a circle
or hoop of your rolled stuff and bend it in this way. Then make a cap
that will fit the head and come over the ears, and make it so that
this cap shall join the heart-shaped roll at all points and cause it
to appear without any open spaces between the head and the roll; the
point of the heart in front will be round, and will come over the
centre of the face. By joining cap and roll you will have one complete
affair; over this you may brooch a linen wimple or a fine piece of
jagged silk. In fact, you may twist your circle of stuff in any
manner, providing you keep a vague U shape in front and completely
cover the hair behind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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