England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
a slightly ironical sound, this is purely accidental. A large appetite
for holidays, the ability not only to take them but to know what to
do with them when taken, is the sign of a robust people, and judged
by this measure we Americans are sadly inexpert. Such holidays as we
take are taken very often in Europe, where it is sometimes noticeable
that our privilege is rather heavy on our hands. Acknowledgment made of
English industry, however (our own stands in no need of compliments),
it must be added that for those same easy classes I just spoke of
things are very easy indeed. The number of persons obtainable for
purely social purposes at all times and seasons is infinitely greater
than among ourselves; and the ingenuity of the arrangements permanently
going forward to disembarrass them of their superfluous leisure is as
yet in America an undeveloped branch of civilisation. The young men
who are preparing for the stern realities of life among the grey-green
cloisters of Oxford are obliged to keep their terms but half the year;
and the rosy little cricketers of Eton and Harrow are let loose upon
the parental home for an embarrassing number of months. Happily the
parental home is apt to be an affair of gardens, lawns, and parks.
II
Passion Week, in London, is distinctly an ascetic period; there is
really an approach to sackcloth and ashes. Private dissipation is
suspended; most of the theatres and music-halls are closed; the
huge dusky city seems to take on a still sadder colouring and a
half-hearted hush steals over its mighty uproar. At such a moment, for
a stranger, London is not cheerful. Arriving there, during the past
winter, about Christmas-time, I encountered three British Sundays in
a row—a spectacle to strike terror into the stoutest heart. A Sunday
and a “bank-holiday,” if I remember aright, had joined hands with a
Christmas Day and produced the portentous phenomenon to which I allude.
I betrayed, I suppose, some apprehension of its oppressive character,
for I remember being told in a consolatory way that I needn’t fear; it
would not come round again for another year. This information was given
me on the occasion of that surprising interruption of one’s relations
with the laundress which is apparently characteristic of the period.
I was told that all the washerwomen were intoxicated and that, as it
would take them some time to revive, I must not count upon a relay of
“fresh things.” I shall not forget the impression made upon me by this
statement; I had just come from Paris and it almost sent me spinning
back. One of the incidental _agréments_ of life in the latter city
had been the knock at my door on Saturday evenings of a charming young
woman with a large basket protected by a snowy napkin on her arm, and
on her head a frilled and fluted muslin cap which was an irresistible
advertisement of her art. To say that my admirable _blanchisseuse_
was not in liquor is altogether too gross a compliment; but I was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account