England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
banners and festoons inscribed in big staring letters with mottoes and
sentiments which might easily have given on the nerves of a sensitive
police department. They were mostly in allusion to the Tichborne
claimant, whose release from his dungeon they peremptorily demanded
and whose cruel fate was taken as a pretext for several sweeping
reflections on the social arrangements of the time and country. These
signals of unreason were allowed to sun themselves as freely as if
they had been the manifestoes of the Irish Giant or the Oriental Dwarf
at a fair. I had lately come from Paris, where the authorities have
a shorter patience and where revolutionary placards at the base of
the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde fall in with no recognised
scheme—such is the effect of the whirligig of time—of the grand style
or of monumental decorum. I was therefore the more struck on both of
the occasions I speak of with the admirable English practice of letting
people alone—with the frank good sense and the frank good humour and
even the frank good taste of it. It was this that I found impressive
as I watched the manifestation of Mr. Odger’s underfed partisans—the
fact that the mighty mob could march along and do its errand while the
excellent quiet policemen—eternal, imperturbable, positively loveable
reminders of the national temperament—stood by simply to see that the
channel was kept clear and comfortable.
[Illustration: CANTERBURY, FROM THE MEADOWS]
When Easter Monday came it was obvious that every one (save Mr. Odger’s
friends—three or four million or so) had gone out of town. There was
hardly a pair of shutters in the West End that was not closed; there
was not a bell that it was any use to pull. The weather was detestable,
the rain incessant, and the fact that all your friends were away
gave you plenty of leisure to reflect that the country must be the
reverse of enlivening. But all your friends had gone thither (this
is the unanimity I began by talking about), and to restrict as much
as possible the proportions of that game of hide-and-seek of which,
at the best, so much of London social life consists, it seemed wise
to bring within the limits of the dull season any such excursion as
might have been projected in commemoration of the first days of spring.
After due cogitation I paid a little visit to Canterbury and Dover,
taking Rochester by the way, and it was of this momentous journey that
I proposed, in beginning these remarks, to give an account. But I have
dallied so much by the way that I have come almost to my rope’s end
without reaching my first stage. I should have begun, artistically,
by relating that I put myself in the humour for remote adventure by
going down the Thames on a penny steamboat to the towers of Julius.
This was on the Saturday before Easter, and the City was as silent as
the grave. “London’s lasting shame” was a memory of my childhood, and,
having a theory that from such memories the dust of the ages had better
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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