Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressionsBelloc, Hilaire
History
Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressions
Belloc, Hilaire
Algeria -- Description and travel
I passed at once through the gates and walked for perhaps an hour,
noting curiously a hundred things: the shop-stalls and the lines of
pedestals; the flag-stones of the Forum and the courses of brick—even,
small, Roman and abandoned. I walked so, gazing sometimes beyond the
distant limits of the city to the distant slopes of Atlas, till I came
to a high place where the Theatre had once stood, dug out of a hillside
and built in with rows of stone seats. Here I sat down to draw the
stretch of silence before me, and then I recognised for the first time
that I was very tired.
I said to myself: “This comes of my long march through the night”; but
when I had finished my drawing and had got up to walk again (for one
might walk in Timgad for many days, or for a lifetime if one chose) I
found a better reason for my fatigue, which was this: that, try as I
would I could not walk firmly and strongly upon those deserted streets
or across the flags of that Forum, but I was compelled by something in
the town to tread uncertainly and gently. When I recollected myself I
would force my feet to a natural and ready step; but in a moment, as my
thoughts were taken by some new aspect of the place, I found myself
walking again with strain and care, noiselessly, as one does in shrines,
or in the room of a sleeper or of the dead. It was not I that did it,
but the town.
I saw, some hundred yards away, a man going to his field along a street
of Timgad: he showed plainly for the houses had sunk to rubble upon
either side of his way. This was the first life I had seen under that
stormy mountain morning, and in that lonely place which had been lonely
for so very long. He also walked doubtfully and with careful feet; he
looked downward and made no sound.
I went up and down Timgad all that morning. The sun was not high before
I felt that by long wandering between the columns and peering round many
corners and finding nothing, one at last became free of the city. An
ease and a familiarity, a sort of friendship with abandoned but once
human walls, took the traveller as he grew used to the silence; but
whether in such companionship he did not suffer some evil influence, I
cannot say.
I came to one place and to another and to another, each quite without
men, and each casting such an increasing spell upon the mind as is cast
by voices heard in the night, when one does not know whether they are of
the world, or not of the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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