As a result, nothing is left of the handiwork of the remoter inhabitants
of the region except the constructions of the lake dwellers and some
Roman odds and ends. There is part of a small Roman temple, there is
part of a Roman bath, there is a graceful and battered Roman arch. It
stands on a turfy level over the way from the present great bath house,
is surrounded by magnolia trees, and is both a picturesque and
suggestive object. It has stood there some 1,600 years. Its nearest
neighbor, not twenty steps away, is a Catholic church. They are symbols
of the two chief eras in the history of Aix. Yes, and of the European
world. I judge that the venerable arch is held in reverent esteem by
everybody, and that this esteem is its sufficient protection from
insult, for it is the only public structure I have yet seen in France
which lacks the sign, “It is forbidden to post bills here.” Its neighbor
the church has that sign on more than one of its sides, and other signs,
too, forbidding certain other sorts of desecration.
The arch’s nearest neighbor--just at its elbow, like the church--is the
telegraph office. So there you have the three great eras bunched
together--the era of War, the era of Theology, the era of Business. You
pass under the arch, and the buried Cæsars seem to rise from the dust of
the centuries and flit before you; you pass by that old battered church,
and are in touch with the Middle Ages, and with another step you can put
down ten francs and shake hands with Oshkosh under the Atlantic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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