Well, all these eras above spoken of are modern, they are of last week,
they are of yesterday, they are of this morning, so to speak. The
springs, the healing waters that gush up from under this hillside
village, indeed are ancient. They, indeed, are a genuine antiquity; they
antedate all those fresh human matters by processions of centuries; they
were born with the fossils of the Dent du Chat, and they have been
always abundant. They furnished a million gallons a day to wash the lake
dwellers with, the same to wash the Cæsars with, no less to wash Balzac
with, and have not diminished on my account. A million gallons a day for
how many days? Figures cannot set forth the number. The delivery, in the
aggregate, has amounted to an Atlantic. And there is still an Atlantic
down in there. By Doctor Wakefield’s calculation the Atlantic is
three-quarters of a mile down in the earth. The calculation is based
upon the temperature of the water, which is 114 degrees to 117 degrees
Fahrenheit, the natural law being that below a certain depth heat
augments at the rate of one degree for every sixty feet of descent.
Aix is handsome, and is handsomely situated, too, on its hill slope,
with its stately prospect of mountain range and plain spread out before
it and about it. The streets are mainly narrow, and steep and crooked
and interesting, and offer considerable variety in the way of names; on
the corner of one of them you read this: “Rue du Puits d’Enfer” (“Pit of
Hell Street”). Some of the sidewalks are only eighteen inches wide; they
are for the cats, probably. There is a pleasant park, and there are
spacious and beautiful grounds connected with the two great pleasure
resorts, the Cercle and the Villa des Fleurs. The town consists of big
hotels, little hotels, and _pensions_. The season lasts about six
months, beginning with May. When it is at its height there are thousands
of visitors here, and in the course of the season as many as 20,000 in
the aggregate come and go.
These are not all here for the baths; some come for the gambling
facilities and some for the climate. It is a climate where the field
strawberry flourishes through the spring, summer, and fall. It is hot in
the summer, and hot in earnest; but this is only in the daytime; it is
not hot at night. The English season is May and June; they get a good
deal of rain then, and they like that. The Americans take July, and the
French take August. By the 1st of July the open-air music and the
evening concerts and operas and plays are fairly under way, and from
that time onward the rush of pleasure has a steadily increasing boom. It
is said that in August the great grounds and the gambling rooms are
crowded all the time and no end of ostensible fun going on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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