Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
The old-established firm of Heidsieck and Co., which has secured a
reputation in both hemispheres for its famous Monopole and Dry Monopole
brands, has its cellars scattered about Reims, the central ones, where
the wine is prepared and packed, being situated in the narrow winding
Rue Sedan, at no great distance from the Clicquot-Werlé establishment.
The original firm dates back to 1785, when France was struggling with
those financial difficulties that a few years later culminated in that
great social upheaving which kept Europe in a state of turmoil for more
than a quarter of a century. Among the archives of the firm is a patent,
bearing the signature of the Minister of the Prussian Royal Household,
appointing Heidsieck and Co. purveyors of champagne to Friedrich William
III. The champagne-drinking Hohenzollern _par excellence_, however, was
the son and successor of the preceding, who, from habitual
over-indulgence in the exhilarating sparkling beverage during the last
few years of his reign, acquired the _sobriquet_ of King Clicquot.
On passing through the large _porte-cochère_ giving entrance to Messrs.
Heidsieck’s principal establishment, one finds oneself in a small
courtyard with the surrounding buildings overgrown with ivy and
venerable vines. On the left is a dwelling-house enriched with elaborate
mouldings and cornices, and at the farther end of the court is the
entrance to the cellars, surmounted by a sun-dial bearing the date 1829.
The latter, however, is no criterion of the age of the buildings
themselves, as these were occupied by the firm at its foundation,
towards the close of the last century. We are first conducted into an
antiquated-looking low cellier, the roof of which is sustained with rude
timber supports, and here bottles of wine are being labelled and packed,
although this is but a mere adjunct to the adjacent spacious
packing-room provided with its loading platform and communicating
directly with the public road. At the time of our visit this hall was
gaily decorated with flags and inscriptions, the day before having been
the fête of St. Jean, when the firm entertain the people in their employ
with a banquet and a ball, at which the choicest wine of the house
liberally flows. From the packing-room we descend into the cellars,
which, like all the more ancient vaults in Reims, have been constructed
on no regular plan. Here we thread our way between piles after piles of
bottles, many of which having passed through the hands of the disgorger
are awaiting their customary adornment. The lower tier of cellars is
mostly stored with _vin sur pointe_, and bottles with their necks
downwards are encountered in endless monotony along a score or more of
long galleries. The only variation in our lengthened promenade is when
we come upon some solitary workman engaged in his monotonous task of
shaking his 30,000 or 40,000 bottles per diem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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