Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
The catacombs are, or is, (for I have forgotten my English grammar,) one
of the _lions_ of the environs of Paris; and such a _lion_! Let the word
"lumen" mean "life," and call it "monstrum horrendum, informe, ingens,
cui lumen ademptum." When the Cimetière du Père la Chaise was
substituted for church-yards, out of these latter, now to be applied to
secular uses, were dug the human bones that were found in laying the
foundations of buildings: these bones were carried to certain stone
quarries, now no longer worked, a little to the south of Paris. So far,
so good: but it came into the heads of the managers of this affair to
make a pretty thing of it: on the sides of the passages of the quarry,
and in the wider spaces, they ranged these bones in squares and circles,
and wheels and stars; a skull in the middle, and rays of thighbones,
brachia, and lacerti; of the ossa, ilium, ischium, and coccygis,--there
was no os _sacrum_,--they made obelisks and pyramids; and this "region
of horror,"--these "doleful shades,"--under the abused name of the
catacombs, attract the idle and curious traveller to see by what
fantastic devices that which is most respectable and venerable to
humanity and to faith can be tricked out into raree-show. This place
cannot be visited without inconvenience: it were to be wished, as in the
case of the opera tune, that, instead of difficulty, there might be
impossibility: it is excessively damp; moisture issues from above,
though on the sides it is hidden by the choice tapestry with which they
are decorated; but the ground is slippery; each person gropes along with
a wax taper in his hand, sometimes obliged to curve himself. It is some
consolation, at length, to find here an altar, on which, once in the
year, on All Souls' Day, a _missa pro defunctis_ is said. I trust in
the good taste, if not in the piety of the French people, so far, as to
hope that this altar will be set up in a chapel above-ground, and that
the catacombs will be filled with earth, and closed till the
consummation of all things.
The cimetière and the catacombs are, strictly speaking, in the environs
of Paris, being without the walls. I made however with my sons several
excursions to places in the neighbourhood, setting out in the morning,
passing the day at the place of our visit, and returning in the cool of
the evening. Mrs. ----, and my daughters, who had remained in England
for the purpose of spending some time with her relations before quitting
the country, arrived at Paris, under the conduct of one of her brothers,
towards the middle of July,--in fact, as it happened, on the memorable
fourteenth. I took an apartment for a month in the Rue Neuve des
Mathurins, and during that month also we made excursions. I shall make a
few observations on what I saw; and "first with the first," the pride of
Louis XIV and of France, the deserted palace or château of Versailles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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