Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
We went to St. Ouen, celebrated by Madame de Stäel as the birth-place of
the revolution and of the _charte_; and thence, along the bank of the
Seine, to the port of St. Denis,--the point, that is on the river,
towards which one of the streets of the town extends itself. It is a
small _bourg_; but the seat of a sous-prefecture. On the abolition of
royalty, the ashes of the kings of France, who for many ages had been
interred in the church of St. Denis, were dug up and thrown to the
winds: they were punished for the crime of having been kings, as
Cromwell was punished for having been an usurper. Royalty was called an
usurpation on the sovereign people. The roof of the church was stripped
of its lead to be melted into bullets for the use of the armies, and the
windows were broken for no use at all. The building was thus left
exposed to all the injuries of the seasons, till that great
counter-revolutionist Napoleon undertook to repair it as a burial-place
for the monarchs of "the fourth dynasty,"--a phrase by which he
ingeniously reminded the French that, as the race of Capet was not the
first, it had no imprescriptible right to be the last race of their
sovereigns. The force of this argument prevailed, while maintained by
the argument of force. The audacious _roturier_ who had seized on the
sceptre of royalty, like the daring mortal who stole fire from heaven,
was chained on a barren rock, with vultures,--their prey a fallen great
man,--to gnaw his entrails: on this rock he found his grave. The
reparations of the church of St. Denis, continued by order of the king,
were, at this time, nearly completed. Some remains of the bodies of
Louis XVI. and his queen, rescued from the unseemly sepulture to which
infuriated republicanism had consigned them, had been here honourably
deposited. We had seen the mortal spoil of the brave Prince de Condé
lying in state at the Palais Bourbon; it had here also found its place.
The church resembles that of Notre Dame; it is not so large, but
proportionably loftier; and the pillars, with the whole of the
architecture, are lighter.
Sceaux is a small town, six miles to the south of Paris, situated on a
ridge commanding a fine view to the south and north. It is, as well as
St. Denis, the seat of a sous-prefecture. Hither the Parisians resort
during summer on Sundays to dance under arbours in gardens, and enjoy
other sports, with the zest of those who have been "long in populous
cities pent."
James I. issued an ordinance in favour of Sunday sports: Charles I.
renewed it: the spirit of those who observe no festival but Sunday, and
who keep Sunday like a fast, prevails in England. Such persons will
hardly think it a sufficient set-off against the enormities of the
amusements of Sceaux, that, during four months residence at Paris, I did
not see one drunken man, not even on a Sunday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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