From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
It has ever been the outlet for the stone quarried in the island, and
of the famous Purbeck marble--that grey, fossil-spangled mineral,
familiar to archæologists throughout England as a favourite material
centuries ago for the construction of altar-tombs and fonts. It was
shipped here continuously until the new railway was brought down from
Wareham; now it goes hence mostly by rail.
Swanage strikes the casual visitor as being some sort of an appanage
to that firm of contractors, Mowlem & Burt, for everywhere is the
name of Mowlem in Swanage. Indeed, John Mowlem, the senior member of
the firm, was born here. He traced his ancestry back to a De Moulham
to whom the Conqueror gave a manor of that name in Purbeck, and to
strengthen his associations with the town, he repurchased lands here
that had once been in that family. He died in 1869. It was he and Mr.
Burt who brought about the importation to Swanage of the pinnacled
Clock-tower that stands in the gardens of The Grove, overlooking
the sea. It had once occupied a position on Old London Bridge, and
commemorated the victories of Wellington. When the bridge was rebuilt,
the Clock-tower was found to be in the way, and no one knew what to
do with it. Eventually it was presented to Mr. Docwra, of The Grove,
who sent it down from London in pieces, and rebuilt it here. Thus are
the Wellington monuments moved on from place to place by some strange
fate. The hideous statue that, at Hyde Park Corner, avenged France
for Waterloo, has been relegated to the Fox Hills, at Aldershot; and
the monument in Saint Paul’s Cathedral, never yet finished, has been
removed from its chapel to a newer site in the nave: the equestrian
statue, too, that stands in front of the Royal Exchange, although still
_in situ_, has had a nameless abomination contrived around and below it.
Swanage, like all seaside places, has grown, and is growing yet, but
not with the frenzied growth of more accessible places. It has sands,
is seated in a charming bay, and is frequented chiefly by recurrent
visitors, who, happening here on some day-excursion from Bournemouth,
have been stricken with a love of its still unconventional air, after a
surfeit of that starchy town that sprawls unwieldy upon the Hampshire
coast. These be decent folk, uxorious perhaps, and with large families,
but unostentatious and loving quiet, and they come to Swanage time and
again. You can see them any forenoon on the sands, Ma and Pa and the
children, the nursemaid, and the Maiden Aunt. There always is a Maiden
Aunt, by some kindly disposition of Providence; and I hope, for the
sake of families in general, there always will be, for, truly, no more
beneficent institution exists.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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