From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
It is a fine breezy walk, but rough and tiring, from here to Burton
Bradstock, along the coast--eight miles of a ribbon-like path, that
winds along the landward side of the Chesil Beach. By the time we
reached that village we had had more than enough of it, and crossed
the little river Bredy into the highroad. At the end of another mile
and a half that road runs steeply down into West Bay, the port and
harbour of Bridport, a desolate place of infinite sand, where the sea
comes banging in furiously upon the wooden jetties at the harbour
mouth. Up the marshy valley can just be seen the roof-tops of Bridport,
and at the back of them hills, with hills again to right and left.
Indeed, this is a stretch of country calculated to make sad within
him the heart of the cyclist, for hills abound, and however fair the
country-side may be to an unprejudiced observer, ’tis little short
of a wonder when a land of hills and dales is other than a howling
wilderness to the perspiring wheelman, bent over his handles in an
agony of pedalling. Such an one we met fighting against the inevitable
when last we journeyed this way. The inevitable, it should be said in
this connection, resolved itself into a dismount, and a moist and
gasping halt by the dusty hedgerow. Well, we left the poor soul, and
encumbered only with our knapsacks, breasted the steep down that forms
a short cut to Chideock. Here cycles may not go by any manner of means.
The village of Chideock lay in a valley at some distance, a village of
the kind that lines the highroad, with one long street, rising from the
hollow, half-way to the brow of the succeeding hill. All around lay the
huge hills of this hilly land, with Golden Cap, truncated, like another
Table Mountain, seaward.
XXVI.
Chideock was named from a once powerful family that bore this singular
name, but now long since extinct. They had their castle here, of which
no sign now remains, saving only in the name of the Chideock Castle
Inn, where we stayed the night. It was a night close and intolerably
warm, and I could not sleep. All through the night and the earliest
morning hours the place within and the countryside without were
quiet to a degree. Only once was the stillness of the country road
broken--toward the stroke of one--by the old clock on the stairway.
Then some one who rode horseback went past at a trot, and the clatter
of hoofs rang out clearly in the stillness of the air for some minutes.
I lay and wondered whom he could be who was called abroad at this
hour, and so, weaving little romances around that unconscious rider,
presently fell asleep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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