From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
There is
undoubtedly a quiet something about the Anglo-Saxon that gets there
somehow.
Fever overcame me once more, and I was confined to my bed for several
days; but at last, on January 24th, I made a start, and marched to
Mpata, the first camping-place on the Stevenson Road. The Stevenson
Road is a clearing through the bush that covers the greater part of the
plateau, and barely deserves the title of road, although in some places
a few logs have been thrown across the streams, and the more swampy
portions have been trenched.
The second stage brings one to Mkongwés, about twenty-seven miles from
Karonga. Chumbu, the next halting-place, is fourteen miles further.
The country is very hilly, and the scenery not very attractive. At
intervals, intersecting the road, the telegraph clearing sweeps on in
its relentless line, looking like a gigantic ride, where one expects
every minute to see the white tail of a scared bunny or a gorgeous
cock-pheasant bowling along as though on wheels. But one looks in vain;
no sign of life breaks that monotonous line stretching away over the far
hills till the trees at the side merge together, and it is lost in the
far distant horizon.
A very long day’s march brought us to Fort Hill, the frontier station of
Nyassaland, which is in charge of a few black police. It had been very
wet, as the rains had broken, and I was exceedingly thankful to take
cover in the substantial house which is in the centre of the stockade.
I had a bull-calf with me, and gave it in charge of one of my Askaris,
who retaliated in the usual annoying way of natives by coming and asking
for some string to lead it by. Asking for string is a common and
intangible form of insolence, as they make string from the bark of
several kinds of trees, very common all over the country. But this time
I scored. I had a large coil of Alpine rope weighing about 20 lbs. I
gave him this, and told him on pain of death not to cut it. Then he
said, "It did not matter, he would make some." But I was relentless.
"He had asked for string, and I never refused a reasonable request."
That youth never again asked for string. At Nyala the telegraph people
have built a substantial house, which is to be a telegraph station and
general depository of material; they have selected an admirable
position. A large blood-sucking fly made life rather a burden; they
settled so quietly that one never felt them till they had driven a
proboscis, like a red-hot bodkin, half an inch into one’s neck or face.
Amazing downpours every morning added to the joys of life, and for
several days I had to live in wet clothes and sleep in wet blankets,
while it was almost impossible to start a fire. I had a sou’-wester and
an oilskin, but they were of no avail. The rain fell like a wave, and
with such force that it splashed up underneath, and one was soon
drenched to the neck by capillary attraction. Passing through Mpansa we
reached Ikawa on the 31st.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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