From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
At Ikomba, another B.S.A. station, I found that Mr. Forbes had gone
home, and promptly looted the excellent new potatoes which I found in
his garden. On February 9th I reached Mambwe, and from there made a
trip down to the Awemba country, which is described in the next chapter.
On our return to Mambwe I was laid up with a very severe attack of fever
which did not leave me for two months, till I reached the highlands
around Kivu. I was delirious for some time, but improved sufficiently
to be carried to Kawimbi, a mission station near Abercorn. Mr. and Mrs.
May were most kind to me; the station is very pretty, and looks like an
English village with its picturesque little cottages and numerous
flower-beds. The following morning I was carried on to Abercorn,
although the missionaries kindly pressed me to stay, promising to nurse
me and make me well. I was sorely tempted, but felt bound to hurry on.
At Abercorn I utterly collapsed for several days, and in the intervals
of delirium eked out a precarious existence on Worcester sauce and
limes. Here I heard a lion story. The hero of the story (also the
author) having been told that a leopard was taking toll of the goats,
built a platform in a tree and sat up over a goat. Nothing, however,
turned up; but in the morning, tired of doing nothing, he fired an arrow
at a venture into a patch of grass, and on going to pick it up, found
that it had transfixed the heart of a stupendous black-maned lion.
Considering the state of my health, I thought this rather unkind. At
last I was sufficiently recovered to move once more, and was carried in
a machila, under Mr. Boyd’s care, to Kituta, the A.L.C. station at the
south-eastern extremity of Tanganyika. The first glimpse of those
waters, round which so many dark tragedies have been enacted, cheered me
considerably. I had realized another ambition, and had arrived at the
real starting-point of our Odyssey.
Kituta is a beautiful but pestilential spot, chiefly remarkable for its
abominable smells. It is also the scene of another lion story which
deserves perpetuation.
There was once a very nervous agent in charge of the station with a
particular horror of lions. One of these brutes commenced eating the
natives of the village; so the agent barricaded himself in his room and
slept with six native watchmen in case of attack. Hearing, or thinking
that he heard, the lion prowling round, he fired out of the window and
knocked a hole through the administration boat. The following night he
again heard sounds and fired, bagging the collector’s donkey at the
first shot. A certain well-known sportsman, who was hunting in the
vicinity, wrote in and congratulated him on shooting his first lion. He
rose to the occasion, and now silences all sceptics by producing the
letter, and has acquired quite a reputation as a hunter of big game.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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