From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
fibrous textile of a pleasing reddish-brown colour, made by beating out
the bark of the fig-tree with little wooden hammers, till of the
required thinness. A curious custom prevails here, and one that I have
not noticed elsewhere in Africa, of wearing mourning for dead relatives;
bands of cloth being tied round the head.
[#] Pombe: an intoxicating drink made from millet.
The following day we arrived at Changala’s kraal; he is a large,
powerful man, with a face expressive of determination and character. He
came out two miles to meet us, carried on the shoulders of one of his
men, as is the custom (for the chiefs never walk), with a following of
two or three hundred people. He, as in fact did all the Awemba, gave us
a very hearty reception. Having amicably settled all outstanding
questions with Changala, we visited Makasa, the big man of the country,
whose head village lies about twenty-six miles south-east of Changala’s.
He is a portly old gentleman of unprepossessing countenance, and rather
inclined to make trouble--at a distance; however, guessing our
intentions, he had made great preparations for our reception. On
arrival we found our tents already pitched and grass shelters built
above them to keep off the sun; while large crowds of obsequious
gentlemen came out to meet us and insisted on carrying in our machilas
at a run, a form of attention that would not be appreciated by Accident
Insurance Companies. His village, which cannot contain less than five
hundred huts, is of the usual Awemba pattern, and is a great centre of
the bark-cloth industry.
Tales of rhino and elephant galore raised our hopes to the highest
pitch, and after a day’s rest we launched forth into the game country--a
triangular patch of country that lies at the junction of the Chambesi,
and its main tributary the Chosi--camping near Chipiri, the original
site of the French mission. Here we got our first glimpse of the
Chambesi, which, flowing with a devious course into Lake Bangweolo, is
the real source of the Congo. It rises between Mambwe and Abercorn, and
at Chipiri is already a river of some size, flowing through a beautiful
grass plain clothed with patches of waving spear-grass. The plain,
varying in width from a half to five miles, is hemmed in by forest bush
and park land, dotted over with innumerable ant-hills, some 30 ft. in
height, and is the haunt of countless herds of pookoo, two of which
graced our larder shortly after pitching camp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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