From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Turning out early the next morning I struck the spoor of the herd of
roan, and after sixteen miles through water ankle-deep, came up with
them; but they saw me first, and I only succeeded in dropping a good
cow, which stood on an ant-hill to have a last look at me. I had
arranged to join Palmer and the boys at Nondo, which lies at the
junction of the Mwenda and Chosi, but found that he had gone further up
the Mwenda and camped at Chupi, which lies on the border of Luwala, the
_pièce de résistance_ of our trip. At Nondo the Chosi forms a wide
pool, formerly the abode of numerous hippo till the advent of one of the
French priests, who murdered the majority, for the satisfaction, I
suppose, of seeing them float down-stream. The same enterprising
individual, with other kindred spirits, organized a drive of the herds
of pookoo on the plain. Huge fences were built at one end with
funnel-shaped openings, where the gallant sportsmen stationed
themselves, and, if report speaks true, slaughtered about two hundred.
I wonder how many they wounded? By the side of the pool is an enormous
pile of old hippo skulls that is regarded with superstitious awe by the
natives, and close by is a sacred tree, the burial-place of some old
chief, where quite a respectable herd of cattle has accumulated from the
native offerings. East of the Chosi there is another Awemba god, who
dwells in a thicket decorated by a wonderful collection of horns.
When a big chief dies, they smoke him for a year and then bury him in
bark-cloth. The general belief is that his spirit enters into a lion,
an animal that they hold in superstitious awe, and refuse to kill.
From Chupi we marched into Luwala, a hitherto unexplored tract of
country. During the rains it is under water, and is consequently quite
uninhabited, a few natives only camping there for fishing purposes, as
the waters begin to leave the plain. On the north and east it is
bounded by the Chosi for a distance of about sixty miles, and on the
west by a slight ridge covered with bush, through which numerous streams
flow and lose themselves in the marshes, eventually draining into the
Chosi by the Mwenda.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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