From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
In the evening we arrived at the Congo Free State post of M’liro, which
is at the south-western corner of the lake, a few miles over the
Anglo-Congolese boundary.
On board I discovered two of the boys who had gone up with Sharp, and
who had been left at Kituta. At Kituta I had given instructions that
they were to be sent back; so the following morning, having crossed the
lake to a wooding station, on the eastern shore, I turned them off with
their pay and cloth to buy food on the road; but one of them, on
adventure bent, slipped on board again. During the night, finding the
sleeping-places rather limited, he calmly threw a crate containing
twenty-eight fowls, belonging to Mr. Mohun, overboard.
On April 4th we recrossed the lake and arrived at the French Mission
Station of M’bala. This station is of several years’ standing, and the
Fathers, who are seven in number, with several lay brothers, have built
themselves a substantial and comfortable home. They have also built a
magnificent cathedral, capable of holding many hundred devotees. I am
afraid it would need a large expenditure of cloth and medals to fill it.
There are also elaborate workshops, and the gardens, which are very
extensive, are planted with numbers of flourishing fruit trees. The
coffee-shrubs were particularly remarkable for their size and yield. On
the walls were many gigantic sable heads. The horns of one that I
measured were 46-½ in.; while many others were almost as long. All
these antelope had been shot in the immediate vicinity by native hunters
employed on the mission station. It was here that the record sable head
which Mr. Boyd presented to me was obtained; and it is evident that
these sable must be the largest in the world. They also had a few rhino
horns, which had been shot in the neighbourhood.
They gave us a tremendous dinner, with a bewildering profusion of
courses and some luscious kinds of fruit, amongst which the
_ceil-de-boeuf_ was particularly soothing; and delicious Algerian wine
flowed freely round the festive board. There are two or three white
sisters at the station; it was very sad to see how ill they looked.
After dinner, some natives brought in a large catch of fish, amongst
which was a splendid kind of white-fleshed salmon. The Fathers informed
me that this fish, at that time of the year, runs up the small streams,
and jumps up waterfalls of considerable height.
The charming point about these white Fathers is that they never ply one
with fantastic accounts of the work which they are doing. When we
regretfully took our leave, they presented us with several large baskets
of potatoes, tomatoes, pomegranates, and many other fruits and
vegetables.
Along this shore there are enormous dug-out canoes, and we were carried
to and from the steamer in one very fine specimen, probably 40 ft. in
length.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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