Mails and diligences, we have said, are only established on the
principal high roads connected with Madrid: there are but few local
coaches which run from one provincial town to another, where the
necessity of frequent and certain intercommunication is little called
for. In the other provinces, where these modern conveniences have not
been introduced, the earlier mode of travelling is the only resource
left to families of children, women, and invalids, who are unable to
perform the journey on horseback. This is the _festina lentè_, or
voiturier system; and from its long continuance in Italy and Spain, in
spite of all the improvements adopted in other countries, it would
appear to have something congenial and peculiarly fitted to the habits
and wants of those cognate nations of the south, who have a
Gotho-Oriental dislike to be hurried--_no corre priesa_, there is plenty
of time. _Sie haben zeit genug._
[Sidenote: THE MAYORAL.]
The Spanish vetturino, or “_Calesero_,” is to be found, as in Italy,
standing for hire in particular and well-known places in every principal
town. There is not much necessity for hunting for _him_; he has the
Italian instinctive perception of a stranger and traveller, and the same
importunity in volunteering himself, his cattle, and carriage, for any
part of Spain. The man, however, and his equipage are peculiarly
Spanish; his carriage and his team have undergone little change during
the last two centuries, and are the representatives of the former ones
of Europe; they resemble those vehicles once used in England, which may
still be seen in the old prints of country-houses by Kip; or, as regards
France, in the pictures of Louis XIV.’s journeys and campaigns by
Vandermeulen. They are the remnant of the once universal “coach and
six,” in which according to Pope, who was not infallible, British fair
were to delight for ever. The “_coche de colleras_” is a huge cumbrous
machine, built after the fashion of a reduced lord mayor’s coach, or
some of the equipages of the old cardinals at Rome. It is ornamented
with rude sculpture, gilding, and painting of glaring colour, but the
modern pea-jacket and round hat spoil the picture which requires
passengers dressed in brocade and full-bottomed wigs; the fore-wheels
are very low, the hind ones very high, and both remarkably narrow in the
tire; remember when they stick in the mud, and the drivers call upon
Santiago, to push the vehicle out _backwards_, as the more you draw it
forwards the deeper you get into the mire. The pole sticks out like the
bowsprit of a ship, and contains as much wood and iron work as would go
to a small waggon. The interior is lined with gay silk and gaudy plush,
adorned with lace and embroidery, with doors that open indifferently and
windows that do not shut well; latterly the general poverty and _prose_
of transpyrenean civilization has effaced much of these ornate
nationalities, both in coach and drivers; better roads and lighter
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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