Gem-Stones and Their Distinctive CharactersSmith, George Frederick Herbert
Science
Gem-Stones and Their Distinctive Characters
Smith, George Frederick Herbert
Precious stones
The object of the disposition of the facets on a brilliant is to assure
that all the light that enters the stone, principally by way of the
table, is wholly reflected from the base and emerges through the crown,
preferably by way of the inclined facets. A brilliant-cut diamond, if
viewed with the table between the observer and the light, appears quite
dark except for the small amount of light escaping through the culet.
Light should therefore fall on the lower facets at angles greater
than the critical angle of total-reflection, which for diamond is 24°
26´. The pavilions should be inclined properly at double this angle,
or 48° 52´, to the culet; but a ray that emerges at a pavilion in the
actual arrangement entered the table at nearly grazing incidence, and
the amount of light entering this facet at such acute perspective is
negligible. On the other hand, after reflection at the base light must,
in order to emerge, fall on the crown at less than the critical angle
of total-reflection. In Fig. 50 are shown diagrammatically the paths
of rays that entered the table in divers ways. The ray emerging again
at the table suffers little or no dispersion and is almost white,
but those coming out through the inclined facets are split up into
the rainbow effect, known as ‘fire,’ for which diamond is so famous.
It is in order that so much of the light entering by the table may
emerge through the inclined facets of the crown that the pavilions are
inclined at not much more than 40° to the culet. It might be suggested
that instead of being faceted the stone should be conically shaped,
truncated above and nearly complete below. The result would no doubt
be steadier, but, on the other hand, far less pleasing. It is the
ever-changing nuance that chiefly attracts the eye; now a brilliant
flash of purest white, anon a gleam of cerulean blue, waxing to
richest orange and dying in a crimson glow, all intermingled with the
manifold glitter from the surface of the stone. Absolute cleanliness is
essential if the full beauty of any stone is to be realized, but this
is particularly true of diamond. If the back of the stone be clogged
with grease and dirt, as so often happens in claw-set rings, light is
no longer wholly reflected from the base; much of it escapes, and the
amount of ‘fire’ is seriously diminished.
[Illustration: FIG. 50.—Course of the Rays of Light passing through a
Brilliant.]
Needless to state, lapidaries make no careful angular measurements
when cutting stones, but judge of the position of the facets entirely
by eye. It sometimes therefore happens that the permissible limits
are overstepped, in which event the stone is dead and may resist all
efforts to vivify it short of the heroic course of re-cutting it, too
expensive a treatment in the case of small stones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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