Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features. — John Shaqi
Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.Stephens, Frederic George
History
Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.
Stephens, Frederic George
Gibraltar
On landing, the traveller pushes his way through a motley crowd, crosses
the double enceinte, ditches, and drawbridge, and enters the
market-place, an open area surrounded by barracks, four, five, and six
stories high. Here are to be seen a throng of interesting characters:
Algerians and Morocco merchants, with half-naked legs, slippered feet,
their shoulders wrapped in their large white bernouse, and their head
crowned with the turban or tarbouche; Jews, with venerable beards, black
robes, and pointed bonnets; the turbaned Moors, with loose flowing
robes, and vests and trousers of crimson cloth; and Spanish peasants,
with velvet breeches and leggings of embroidered leather, and the
_navaja_, or knife, thrust into their tight crimson sash. Among these
the English soldier winds his way, neat, erect, and clean-shaven, as on
parade in St. James’s Park; or the Spanish lady lightly treads, her face
concealed by her black silk mantilla, and her hand fluttering the
inevitable fan.
Gibraltar has no public buildings of architectural importance; it is
essentially a garrison town, a fortified post, in which art and beauty
are subordinated to the useful. Except, indeed, at one spot, the Garden,
or Alameda--one of the most charming promenades in the world--which
extends from the sea-wall to the base of the precipices, formerly known
as the “Red Sands.” Here blooms a garden which is truly “a miracle.” The
sub-tropical flora is displayed in all its magnificent variety. A forest
of aloe and cactus, of cistus and sweet-scented broom, clothes the
rugged flanks and steep declivities of the mountain, if such it may be
called. The winding
[Illustration: THE ALAMEDA.
_Page 122._
]
alleys creep in and out of masses of rose-trees and flowering geraniums;
while tall pines, huge mimosas, arbutes, and pepper-plants spread a
pleasant shade around. Through these thick screens of verdure a glimpse
is here and there obtained of the mast-studded harbour, and the shining
waters of the Bay, and the azure hills beyond. Is it possible to
conceive of a spot more enchanting? The great defect in landscapes on
the border of the sea is, as a French writer remarks, the want of
greensward and leafy trees. But here these charms are combined; the
richness of a beautiful vegetation blends with the transparency of a
sunny sky, and the sapphire light of a sea like that of Naples, to form
a picture of supreme attraction.
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