Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.Stephens, Frederic George
History
Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.
Stephens, Frederic George
Gibraltar
The town of Gibraltar is of limited extent, and the peculiar nature of
its position prevents it from enlarging itself in any direction. Its two
or three long streets run parallel to the sea-lines, and are intersected
at right angles by numerous narrow squalid lanes, which ascend the
precipitous acclivity by flights of rugged steps, called “Ramps.” The
general aspect of the town reminds the visitor of Landport; but these
lanes resemble the wynds in the “Old Town” of Edinburgh. “Toilsomely
clambering to the top of the Ramps, we find,” says Bartlett, “still
narrower lanes parallel to those below, resting on the bare hillside,
but the houses having a fine look-out, and being often half buried in
shrubbery and creepers, and peeping down upon the confused bee-hive
below. Crouching thus, as it does, at the foot of the hot and arid rock,
with its streets and alleys closely jammed together for want of room to
expand, the town of Gibraltar is in summer excessively close and
oppressive, and at no time can it be, we should imagine, an agreeable
place of residence; for not only are its habitations confusedly huddled
together, but for the most part exceedingly ill built and unsuitable to
the climate.” This unfavourable opinion, however, is not confirmed by
every traveller; and, as a matter of fact, for some months in the year
the climate of Gibraltar is anything but unhealthy.
Byron called Valletta, the principal port of Malta, a “military
hothouse;” but the term is much more applicable to Gibraltar, where the
principal ornaments are cannon, and half the population soldiers or
soldiers’ wives, or soldiers’ purveyors. If not the pomp and
circumstance of war, at least its more prosaic side is everywhere
visible. At every corner parties are relieving guard; the patrol pace
the crowded streets to the ear-splitting music of fife and drum; watches
are regulated, morning and evening, by gun-fire; the gates are closed at
a certain hour; peaceable amateurs sketching bits of the Rock are
ferociously challenged by suspicious sentinels; you cannot move a step
without abundant evidence that you are in a fortified town, where reigns
an unrelaxing vigilance. Yet it is not without its semi-humourous,
semi-picturesque aspects, such as Thackeray has drawn with his
accustomed distinctness. Suppose, he says, all the nations of the earth
to send suitable ambassadors to represent them at Wapping or Portsmouth
Point, with each under its own national signboard and language, its
appropriate house of call, and your imagination may figure the Main
Street of Gibraltar. There the Jews predominate, and Moors abound; and
from the “Jolly Sailor,” or the brave “Horse Marine,” where the people
of our nation are drinking British beer and gin, you hear choruses of
“Garryowen” or “The girl I left behind me;” while through the lattices
of the Spanish wine-shops come the clatter of castanets and the jingle
and moan of Spanish guitars and ditties. “It is a curious sight at
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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