Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.Stephens, Frederic George
History
Gibraltar and Its Sieges, with a Description of Its Natural Features.
Stephens, Frederic George
Gibraltar
“‘All’s well,’” says Thackeray with humorous exaggeration, “is very
pleasant when sung decently in tune, and inspires noble ideas of duty,
courage, and danger; but when you have it shouted all the night through,
accompanied by a clapping of muskets in a time of profound peace, the
sentinel’s cry becomes no more romantic to the hearer than it is to the
sandy Connaught-man or the barelegged Highlander who delivers it. It is
best to read about wars comfortably in ‘Harry Lorrequer’ or Scott’s
novels, in which knights shout their war-cries, and jovial Irish
bayoneteers hurrah, without depriving you of any blessed rest. Men of a
different way of thinking, however, can suit themselves perfectly at
Gibraltar; where there is marching and counter-marching, challenging and
relieving guard all the night through. And this all over the huge Rock
in the darkness; all through the mysterious zigzags, and round the dark
cannon-ball pyramids, and along the vast rock-galleries, and up to the
topmast flag-staff, where the sentry can look out over two seas, poor
fellows are marching and clapping muskets, and crying, ‘All’s well,’
dressed in cap and feather, in place of honest nightcaps best befitting
the decent hours of sleep.”
Every visitor to Gibraltar makes a point of ascending to the Signal
Station, though the climb is somewhat arduous, and the higher we ascend
the more rugged and rocky becomes the winding path. It must be owned,
however, that the view from the summit repays one for the fatigue of the
ascent. From this point is clearly seen the ridge-like character of the
Rock, dividing it into two steep declivities, which vary considerably in
their character. On the east, as we have already said, nothing is
visible but an inaccessible precipice; on the west, the slope is more
gradual, is broken into terraces, and descends to a narrow level running
parallel with the shore, where cluster the houses of the town and the
villas on its outskirts, with batteries and other defensive works
stretching right away to Europa Point.
Immediately at the foot of the Rock observe the New Mole and the
Dockyard. The works which protect the sea-front of the town extend to
this point, where they are strengthened by the comparatively new
batteries, Victoria and Albert, and the sunken zigzag, poetically named
the “Snake in the Grass.” Beyond lies the sheltered nook of Rosier Bay,
where ships of the line frequently drop anchor; on the high ground above
are situated the Naval Hospital and Barracks. The terraces of Europa and
Windmill Hill next come in sight, with an apparently endless series of
barracks, forts, magazines, officers’ residences, bastions, curtains,
and batteries. Across the Strait the eye rests upon the Spanish fortress
of Ceuta, and the mountain-chain which extends from Tetuan to Tangier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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