Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2Cooper, James Fenimore
General
Gleanings in Europe : $b Italy, vol. 1 of 2
Cooper, James Fenimore
Cooper, James Fenimore, 1789-1851 -- Travel -- Italy; Italy -- Description and travel
The orange-trees in this vicinity were covered with fruit; but the
oranges themselves were sour and unpalatable. On the whole, the
situation of Nice, which is almost entirely sheltered by mountains
towards the north, must render the climate generally mild; and the
proximity of the Mediterranean, no doubt, lends a blandness to the
air. But, on the other hand, the sudden changes and cold blasts that
certainly do occur among all mountains, cannot but make it a little
precarious for consumptive people. If the scirocco, the greatest
drawback of this region, blows home at this remote point, it will be
an additional objection. I believe that the present condition of the
world, and the great facilities for travelling, are bringing other
places more into notice, and Nice and Montpelier are in less request
than formerly. Still, judging only from my own hasty and imperfect
surveys of both, I should recommend Nice much sooner than Pisa.
After dinner, which, for the first time since I came to Europe, was
made at a _table d’hote_ filled by men in trade,--a set that struck me
as singularly professional on so long an abstinence from the luxury of
the craft,--we left Nice for Antibes. The road ran along a level and
fertile country, among orange-groves and olive-trees, until we reached
a broad and straggling river called the Var, across which was thrown a
rude, long, wooden bridge. Near the middle of this bridge was a gate
that marked the frontier of France.--At the opposite side of the river,
we encountered a custom-house, where my luggage was examined. This was
done in a very civil and _pro formá_ manner; and the _douceur_ that
was offered, as an acknowledgment of this favour, was declined.--The
circumstance deserves to be recorded.
It was dark when we reached Antibes, a walled and garrisoned town,
that occupies a low promontory which forms a pretty little haven. This
place is known in the history of Napoleon, who landed in a meadow about
a league from it, where he encamped for the night, in the celebrated
expedition of 1815. An officer, with a few men, was sent to summon
Antibes; but they were captured and confined in the town. The moments
were too precious to be lost in discussing the matter, and the next day
the Emperor moved on, leaving his agent, as the lawyers say, “to abide
the event of the suit.” The coast is generally low in this vicinity,
and the brigs found good anchorage in an open roadstead. The descent
was made at an unprotected point, and as we passed it next morning the
_conducteur_ showed me a tree under which Napoleon passed the night.
It is now generally understood that his arrival was expected, and that
the army was in a great measure prepared to receive him. “_Le Petit
Caporal._”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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