Granada and the Alhambra: A brief description of the ancient city of Granada, with a particular account of the Moorish palaceCalvert, Albert Frederick
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Granada and the Alhambra: A brief description of the ancient city of Granada, with a particular account of the Moorish palace
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Alhambra (Granada, Spain); Art -- Spain -- Granada; Granada (Spain) -- Description and travel
By the door next to the Capilla de San Miguel we pass into the Sagrario
(sacristy) occupying the site of the old mosque, which it replaced in
1705. It was designed by Don Francisco Hurtado and Jose de Bada, and it
is well that the responsibility for so meretricious a piece of
architecture should be divided. It may be dismissed as Churrigueresque.
It is not, fortunately, devoid of interest. In one of the chapels is
buried “the magnificent cavalier, Fernando del Pulgar, Lord of El
Salar,” as the inscription records. This valiant knight and true, during
the last campaign against Granada, rode into the city with fifteen
horsemen, and set a lighted taper on the floor of the mosque, and, as
others say, nailed a paper bearing the Ave Maria on the door. This
exploit earned for him and his descendants the extremely valuable
privilege of wearing their hats in the Cathedral. De Pulgar’s bones have
fared better than those of the good Archbishop de Talavera, which were
scattered when the old mosque was demolished. The Sagrario possesses
several good paintings, including a San José by Cano, of whose works the
Cathedral buildings, as may have been noticed, contain a fine selection.
By the door next to the Capilla de Pulgar, and a darkish passage, the
Chapel Royal may be entered.
The oldest purely Christian building in Granada is the convent and
chapel of San Jeronimo, a foundation transferred here from Santa Fé
immediately after the Reconquest. The convent is now a cavalry barracks,
and is not to be inspected by the curious. The church, built by Diego de
Siloe, is in the form of a Latin cross--stern, plain, dignified. The
walls are adorned with frescoes representing scenes from the Passion,
portraits of the Fathers of the Church, and angels playing on the harp
and singing. They were executed in 1723 by an obscure painter called
Juan de Medina. Eight chapels open on the aisles and nave, one
containing a fine retablo, with the Entombment as subject. The principal
chapel exhibits Siloe’s skill at its best. He is said to have realised
in its construction “his lofty ideal of effecting a truly Spanish
Renaissance; an ideal which bore little fruit, since some of his
followers confined themselves to the strictest classicism, others to the
development of the plateresque.” Very much in the spirit of the
Renaissance is the decoration of the chapel with the statues of the
worthies of the classic world, Cæsar, Pompey, Hannibal, Homer, and
others, side by side with Old Testament characters. Strange, this
admiration for a pagan civilisation co-existent with violent religious
fanaticism against all contemporary non-Catholics!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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