Gray Days and Gold in England and ScotlandWinter, William
General
Gray Days and Gold in England and Scotland
Winter, William
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- Great Britain
In the drive between Penrith and Patterdale you see many things that
are worthy of regard. Among these are the parish church of Penrith, a
building made of red stone, remarkable for a massive square tower of
great age and formidable aspect. In the adjacent churchyard are The
Giant's Grave and The Giant's Thumb, relics of a distant past that
strongly and strangely affect the imagination. The grave is said to
be that of Ewain Cæsarius,[16] a gigantic individual who reigned over
Cumberland in remote Saxon times. The Thumb is a rough stone, about
seven feet high, presenting a clumsy cross, and doubtless commemorative
of another mighty warrior. Sir Walter Scott, who traversed Penrith
on his journeys between Edinburgh and London, seldom omitted to pause
for a view of those singular memorials, and Scott, like Wordsworth,
has left upon this region the abiding impress of his splendid genius.
Ulfo's Lake is Scott's name for Ullswater, and thereabout is laid
the scene of his poem of _The Bridal of Triermain_. In Scott's day
the traveller went by coach or on horseback, but now, "By lonely
Threlkeld's waste and wood," at the foot of craggy Blencathara, you
pause at a railway station having Threlkeld in large letters on its
official signboard. Another strange thing that is passed on the
road between Penrith and Patterdale is "Arthur's Round Table,"--a
circular terrace of turf slightly raised above the surrounding
level, and certainly remarkable, whatever may be its historic or
antiquarian merit, for fine texture, symmetrical form, and lovely,
luxuriant colour. Scholars think it was used for tournaments in the
days of chivalry, but no one rightly knows anything about it, save
that it is old. Not far from this bit of mysterious antiquity the
road winds through a quaint village called Tirril, where, in the
Quaker burial-ground, is the grave of an unfortunate young man,
Charles Gough, who lost his life by falling from the Striding Edge
of Helvellyn in 1805, and whose memory is hallowed by Wordsworth and
Scott, in poems that almost every schoolboy has read, and could never
forget,--associated as they are with the story of the faithful dog, for
three months in that lonesome wilderness vigilant beside the dead body
of his master,
"A lofty precipice in front,
A silent tarn below."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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