Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia: An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of RhodesiaHall, R. N. (Richard Nicklin)
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Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia: An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia
Hall, R. N. (Richard Nicklin)
Great Zimbabwe (Extinct city); Zimbabwe -- Antiquities
Looking back at the Acropolis Hill, and at its long line of precipice,
one sees the ancient walls on the summit gleaming white in the
moonlight, while the tall monoliths stand clear against the sky. In
the passages on the hill one might almost expect on such a night to
come face to face with Rider Haggard’s She at any corner, or to see
her draped form issuing from one of the numerous caves which still
pierce the cliffs. But we must turn our backs on the Acropolis Hill,
and make for the Elliptical Temple, passing the little graveyard
where the remains of Major Alan Wilson and his Shangani heroes rest
in their granite tomb in the grove of euphorbia trees, whose branches
cast black, sharp-cut shadows on the ground. Then across an open
granite space, and up the long parallel passage on the east side of
Ridge Ruins, out through its intricate southern entrance, and on to
the level ground which runs up to the foot of the temple walls. The
clumps of tall, old-world-looking aloes and euphorbia trees lining the
walls of No. 1 Ruins on the left of our path appear strange even by
daylight, but in the midnight radiance of the full moon they assume
intensely weird and fantastic forms thoroughly in harmony with the
outlines of the ancient buildings. The lonely grave of Thomas Bailey,
an Australian gold prospector, lies close to the right-hand side of
the path. He died in 1893 while searching for relics within the temple.
The temple walls covered with white lichen appear to have been
whitewashed for centuries, and these gleam brightly with light in
distinct contrast to the dark veld and bush from which they rise; and
so white are they that at a fair distance one can see every course,
block, and joint in their dry masonry. The broad bases of the walls
in comparison with the widths of their summits—though a full-sized
wagon and a team of sixteen oxen could stand upon the top of the more
substantial portion of the walls—their sloping sides, and the utter
absence of any feature of any style of architecture known in Western
Europe, lend a strikingly Eastern appearance to the building, which is
sufficient in itself to forcibly take one’s mind back some two or three
thousand years. Meanwhile the noise of village drums, the blowing of
horns, and the deep wild choruses of crowds of men, mingled with the
voices of women and girls, were waxing louder and more incessant as
midnight approached.
Standing in No. 5 Enclosure, just within the west entrance, the
interior of the temple is seen to be full of light and shadow. But all
is serenely calm and still as if possessed by the silence of the grave.
The high, massive walls encircling the temple deaden to faintness the
voices of the villagers. The close air, heavy with the scent of verbena
wafted in from the veld, is oppressive in the extreme. An inexplicable
sensation of trespassing in forbidden precincts possesses one. The
native looks scared. Midnight visits to ruins are not his particular
fancy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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