Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia: An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of RhodesiaHall, R. N. (Richard Nicklin)
History
Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia: An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia
Hall, R. N. (Richard Nicklin)
Great Zimbabwe (Extinct city); Zimbabwe -- Antiquities
Ascending the hill through the sunless Rock Passage, the air is cool
and draughty, but on emerging at the upper end one is faced by the rich
blinding glow of the setting sun, and here the air is still warm. As
we pass through the Western Enclosure and through the gap in the main
west wall of the Western Temple, a view down the sheer drop of the
hill into the valley below presents itself. The Elliptical Temple is
just losing its last faint touches of the golden tint of sunset. The
“Valley of Ruins” is already in shadow, and its chaos of walls looks
now even more chaotic and bewildering than it did in the full light of
day. Mogabe’s cattle wending their way up Makuma Kopje to the kraal for
the night, the bleating of sheep and goats already penned, the far-away
talk of women and girls returning from collecting firewood with their
bundles on their heads, and the laughter of small parties of natives
returning homewards from their plantations, all speak of departing
day. The lofty lichened sides of Lumbo Rocks are still bright orange
in the sunset, but the nearer side of the Bentberg has become dark and
black in shadow, showing up the walls of the Elliptical Temple in the
foreground with striking clearness. The long ravine of Schlichter Gorge
is now blurred in grey distances, while the Motelekwe and Mowishawasha
valleys have already lost the sun for some minutes. The kopjes cast the
same backgammon-board-shaped shadows across the valleys just as they
did three and four thousand years ago when the tired ancients watched
the drawing-in of day.
But turning a glance round to the Western Temple, still at this height
bathed in golden sheen, one sees only the ancient walls and passages
silent and deserted. This area might have been a busy spot for the
ancient occupiers at this hour of the day, for monoliths, decorative
mural patterns, and conical towers are now all aglow with sunset
brightness, and here at this time of day, as the shadow of the slanting
granite beam fades on the dentelle pattern on the platform, they might
have read as on a dial face, in light and shade, the progress of
the season of the year. The call to prayers and the chanting of the
evening hymn of the devout at sunset might at this same hour very many
centuries ago have rung round the selfsame hallowed walls which look
down sphinx-like and blankly upon the modern visitor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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